Pet Goddess

A chinchillas’ cage should be “cleaned-up” daily and, more thoroughly cleaned and disinfected weekly. Food and water “dishes” need to be cleaned every day; one option would be to do this in the morning, before you put in his basic food (pellets) for the day. Water bottles and food dishes need cleansing with soapy hot water followed by a through rinsing.

Many types of water bottles and food dishes can be placed in the dishwasher, this will clean and disinfect these items very well, just be sure to read the manufacturers instructions regarding this; if you do not see this information, there is usually a phone number or Web-site provided

You may soak water bottles, tubes and nozzles in bleach water to disinfect them as well. Remember though BE SURE to thoroughly rinse them after soaking; any bleach residue can make your pet very ill or even cost him his life. Water bottlesand food dishes that are not cleaned regularly can cause serious health problems for your chinchilla. Bacteria can grow quickly in an unclean bowl or water bottle and in turn cause a bacterial infection to grow in this animal’s delicately balanced system.

When doing your weekly cleaning and disinfecting of your chinchillas’ cage you will need to wipe down the entire cage, paying special attention to the litter pan. One very affective as well as inexpensive cleaning agent is bleach. Use ¾ cup of the bleach for every gallon of water. Again, as mentioned above, be very careful to rinse everything you’ve washed using this bleach mixture. Other types of cleaners work equally well just be sure to follow the recommended dilution and rinse very, very well.

No matter the size of your cage, a five-gallon bucket with any diluted disinfectant should work well. If using bleach, though, use extra caution to avoid getting it on anything that you do not want ruined; bleach will not only discolor but can “eat through ” almost any kind of material or surface. If working inside, lay down a tarp, plastic sheeting or some kind of thick blanket that you don’t mind being marked-up or discolored.

If possible, take the cage outside to be cleaned as this will make the job all the easier and greatly reduce the chance of anything of value getting accidentally damaged. Unless you have a “chinchilla sitter” to watch over your pet as you clean his cage, you will need something to put him in until you are finished. Another, smaller, holding-cage would be ideal but it is not imperative that you have one. Whatever you use, just be sure that it’s safe, can comfortably hold him, something that you won’t mind possibly being chewed or used as a “bathroom”, or that he can get out of.

Posted December 23, 2009 Comments(0)

If you plan on breeding your chinchillas’, you may want to purchase a smaller cage for the babies to use temporarily after they are weaned. This comes into play mainly because females can become pregnant at a very, very young age. As this can happen before their little bodies are really fully matured enough to handle the added stress, the possibility of death while giving birth is greatly increased…. for the young mother as well as the kits. Also, you may very well find yourself with more chinchillas’ than you are prepared to care for in a very short span of time; their numbers increase exponentially almost before your eyes!

If you are indeed intentionally breeding them and you have come to the point of having all that you can properly care for, then you will need to obtain another, very similar in size and set-up (to reduce the stress of “moving”) cage. You will then need to separate the males from the females. After doing this be sure to place the cages as far apart within your home as possible as the males will become more aggressive toward each other if they become aware that the females have come into their reproductive responsive state again; try to place the cages in completely different parts of your home, put them as far away from each other as you can.

Another approach you can take in the matter of housing your chinchillas’ is to build one yourself. You can find plans, size measurements and systematic instructions on the Internet on how to build a cage that is safe and escape-proof for your pet(s). There are also many books written that can take you step by step through the process. One of the nicest things about doing this is that it will allow you to express your own tastes and creativity. And, who knows, your pet may even be able to sense the love, caring and individuality that you put into it for him!

You can also customize a cage you bought for your chinchilla. You can add or remove things, even build on or remove parts of it depending on you, and your little friend‘s tastes, needs and desires. Another way you can personalize it can be to fill it with fun things for him to play with and do. Place toys that hang from the sides and roof and/or build shelves for your chinchilla to rest on. A hammock for the chinchilla to play on or lounge in will add fun as well as uniqueness.

Place things like grass boxes, and tubes in the cage which can be used for play as well as sleeping. Rotate the play things you use, it will give him the feeling that there are always new, exciting things available for him. Chinchillas’ like to chew on many things so be sure to provide him with things that are safe for him to do so on. Avoid using plastic of any kind for anything that he has access to, chewing plastic can harm his mouth, throat and digestive tract. Things made of treated woods are also bad for chinchillas’, they can cause all of the harm mentioned above or, at the very least, make him sick to his stomach

There are many types of cages that would work nicely for your pet chinchilla(s). Having discussed several different cage options and features thus far, you should have pretty good insight about what kind of cage you will want as well as need for your soft, fun and furry new little family member(s). Good luck with your new little creature. Undoubtedly, he will enjoy the cage that you provide for him!

Posted December 21, 2009 Comments(0)

So, you‘ve now chosen to buy a chinchilla and to experience the delightful, amusing uniqueness they will bring to your home as pets. Now, you are going to need to make a home within your home for them; a cage, for them and their things. There are many different types, shapes and sizes of small pet cages available on the Internet as well as at your local pet store.

Any cage, from around 30″ to 48″ inches in height and length, should be big enough and provide your pet with plenty of living, as well as playing, room. Of course the difference in size will need to correlate with the number of these furry little creatures that you have chosen to share your home and life with.

While multiple levels are a plus, a solid floor is a must; wire mesh is much too hazardous for their delicate, mouse-like, little feet. It is also wise to choose a cage with bars rather than mesh-like sides because, as you will quickly, and to your amusement, find out, a happy, healthy chinchilla will frequently run all around the cage very fast, banking off the sides in play. And, again, mesh can cause a delicate foot to become caught and, most especially if at this rowdy play, cause serious injury!

You can also add some ramps for your chinchilla to climb on, or even some tree limbs. Just be sure that anything brought in from the outside, like a tree limb, is “cleaned” before putting it into the cage; you do not want to take the chance of introducing bugs or parasites to the home of an animal who’s system is as delicate as a chinchillas’ can be.

Stripping any rough bark off and steaming the limb will greatly reduce this risk. Another “limb-like” option is a large piece of well worn drift wood; again, being sure to sterilize it first. (lovely, naturally-formed drift wood can be found along river banks and large lakes as well as on the shore of a beach). Also, some pet stores carry the larger, synthetic, pieces like this. These additions are not only fun and functional for your pet but also add a natural beauty to the cage, easily creating a unique “coversation piece”.

Many cages come with a removable tray that slides out of the bottom for easy cleaning. A very effective as well as inexpensive source you can use for easy cleaning, disinfecting and deodorizing the cage can be created by mixing a small amount of bleach with hot water; ¾ cup of bleach per gallon of water works very well. DO NOT use the bleach full strength. It is highly corrosive and will damage any plastic it’s used on. It can also damage the surface of metal as well.

This mixture can be used for the rest of the cage too. Be sure, though, to rinse very, very thoroughly; any residue or even strong smell of the bleach can, at the very least, cause your pet to become ill. If possible, taking the entire cage, and the other items used within it, outside to clean, especially when you are using bleach, is a good idea. It will more than allow for proper ventilation for you and you can use a garden hose for a very last and long final rinse for your chinchillas benefit. Use only hot soapy water for all the feeding and drinking containers.

Posted December 19, 2009 Comments(0)

Also, make note, if they can reach something through the cage, chinchillas are notorious for pulling things in and chewing them. Be sure that anything of value is completely out of their reach as these “things” could not only be damaged, but could also cause choking or an intestinal blockage.

When bringing a chinchilla home do not just put him in the cage and leave him there. It is essential that you take your chinchilla out of the cage regularly and spend time with him.

You will want to ensure that a bond forms between you and your new pet. This bonding is a positive thing for the chinchilla as they like to socialize with people as well as each other.

When housing your chinchilla, make sure to provide it with a cage that is big enough for your little guy, or girl, to move and jump around in. Also, make sure the cage has a solid bottom and not a wire mesh. Your chinchilla could get his feet caught in between the wiring of a mesh-cage floor, causing severe injury.

Now that you know some facts about chinchillas, bringing one, or two, home as a pet(s) should seem a bit easier. You will learn much more about these cuddly little creatures as time goes by.

Posted December 17, 2009 Comments(0)

You can use a small box or even a low-sided can to put the “dust bath” in, as long as it allows ample room for a chinchilla to roll in it. Finely ground bone meal is one safe and inexpensive material you can use. These “dust baths” absorb the oil from your chinchillas fur leaving it very soft and clean.

The “dust bath” is an inherited characteristic unique to chinchillas and is a very amusing thing to watch. Using a low-sided can makes observing this all the more fun as you watch him roll “somersault-like” over and over until he has finished his “bath”.

You will need to know what to feed your new, furry little family member. Chinchillas require a high fiber diet; make sure to give them plenty of fresh hay every day. Timothy hay is best as alfalfa hay contains too much calcium in it. Knowing what to feed your chinchilla will have a large affect on the overall health of your pet.

Many chinchillas will take almost any kind of food from your hand so be sure that all who will be in contact with your pet know which things are good for them and which are not; candy, for instance, can make one very sick to his stomach as well as disrupt healthy eating habits.

Upon bringing your chinchilla home, make sure to “chinchilla-proof” it. They are very curious animals and may nibble or chew on things they are able to get to. You should make sure he can’t access things like electric cords or potentially poisonous house plants. Search the room thoroughly before you place your chinchilla down to play freely.

Posted December 15, 2009 Comments(0)

Chinchillas do make wonderful pets. Before you go out and buy one though, be sure you do a little research on these beautiful little creatures. Check up on things like how to care for them, their nutritional needs and all of the items you will need to make a home for them.

The following should of great help in getting you started:

When choosing a chinchilla be sure to look for possible signs of illness, such as hair loss, lethargy or any kind of eye or nose discharge. These things could mean something is seriously wrong with the animal. Some hair loss or signs of any lethargy though, may simply be due to stress.

This stress could be the result of lack of handling or attention, nothing that a good home, love, patience, proper care and nutrition can’t very well correct. Also, if you already have a chinchilla at home, be careful not to choose a cage mate that seems to be ill, as it could be contagious and may sicken your other pet(s).

Chinchillas need a large roomy cage and it is best to have a cage set up before you bring them home. They also like toys to play with, and to chew on. You will need to have a few other certain items present before you bring them home. such as a nest box to lie in, a water bottle to drink out of and the materials needed for them to take a “dust bath” in.

You should never give your chinchilla a bath in water, this could cause a fungus to grow on the skin. Chinchillas require and love to take a “dust bath,” you can purchase the needed products at your local feed or pet store.

Posted December 13, 2009 Comments(0)

One of the things that people seem to dislike the most concerning guinea pigs is the odor that inherently comes along with them. This is why many guinea pigs lose good homes, and end up in shelters, or worse, end up as snake food. While common guinea pig odor is bad news, the good news is that there are solutions for the odors.

Start by buying the right bedding for your guinea pig. What you need is bacteria-resistant bedding. Read labels carefully, and select the highest quality bedding that you can find. It may cost more, but it makes life much more bearable for you in the long run.

Next, provide the proper surface for the bedding. Odors soak into woods, and therefore, plastic is much more preferable. Plastic, unlike wood, can easily be scrubbed, and you should do so weekly, and change the bedding weekly. Many pet stores also sell cage fresheners for both rabbits and guinea pigs. Note that if you cannot find cage freshener
specifically for guinea pigs, the freshener designed for rabbits will also work.

Use a vegetable grater, and grate peelings from oranges, lemons, and limes. Mix these shavings with your normal bedding, and you will find that this is an inexpensive way to cut down on odors. Some people spray Lysol around the cage, but this can be dangerous to the guinea pig and is not advised. Instead, you can purchase air freshening sprays that are designed for pet cages, and you can even purchase Guinea Pig Odor Spray as well, which reportedly works quite well, and is available from most pet stores.

Good circulation is essential. The odors associated with guinea pigs don’t always come from the animals. It may be caused by hay that has become mildewed. This happens frequently, and this is why many guinea pig owners put fresh hay in the pen on a daily basis, instead of
weekly. Changing the hay this often isn’t necessary, however, if there is proper air circulation.

Proper air circulation and filtering can be achieved with the help of a portable air purifier. These tend to cut down on other problems as well, such as pollen and dirt in the air, in addition to bacteria. Not only will this help to solve odor problems, it will also make the room healthier for you and your guinea pigs. These types of air purifiers can be purchased online, or from discount stores.

The trick to effectively using an air purifier is to buy the appropriate system for the size of the room that you need to use it in. Newer models of air purifiers don’t use filters, which saves money in the long run, although those that do use filters are typically cheaper initially. You have to determine whether you want to save a little money now, or a lot of money down the road.

As you can see, there really are solutions to guinea pig odors, and those options don’t include getting rid of the guinea pig. If you use one or all of these methods of odor control, you and your guinea pig can co-exist happily in the same home.

Posted December 5, 2009 Comments(0)

Does Your Guinea Pig Need a Bath?

It’s no secret that guinea pig odors can become overwhelming. What you may not realize is that the odor doesn’t come from your beloved pet’s body. It comes from mildewed hay, urine, and feces. Unless your guinea pig gets really dirty, or you are showing him, he really doesn’t ever need a bath.

If you have no real reason to bathe your guinea pig, you can give your pet a good wipe with a pet wipe. These special wipes are sold in pet stores and from online sources, and they wipe away a great deal of loose dirt and generally ‘freshen’ up your guinea pig.

However, if you do need to bath your guinea pig for some reason, there is a right way and a wrong way to do it. In this situation, you most likely won’t bath your guinea pig more often than every three months, as it could actually dry out his skin, and make him unhealthy. If there is a skin ailment, however, your veterinarian may prescribe a medicated shampoo, and suggest bathing more often.

If you must bath your guinea pig, note that he isn’t going to like you very much for a little while. Start by making sure that you have everything that you need on hand and within reach. You will need about four towels, a wash basin, a small plastic cup, pet shampoo or baby shampoo, and a hairbrush.

Start by warming the house, or at least the room, up a bit. You don’t want your guinea pig to get too cold, and getting wet could easily make him cold, even though the water will be warm. Use a wash basin to bath your guinea pig. The tub is really too big, and the smaller space of the basin will actually give you greater control. Fill the basin with warm
water, and make sure that it isn’t too hot. Ideally, the water should be the perfect temperature for a human baby. Optionally, you can have one basin for washing, and one basin for rinsing. If using two basins, fill both with warm water.

Using the plastic cup, get your guinea pig’s fur wet. Don’t pour water over his head. You shouldn’t get his head or face wet at all in fact. You will wash him from behind the ears and back, so that is the only part that needs to get wet. Once he’s wet enough, use a little shampoo and lather him up. Use the tips of your nails to give him a good, but gentle scrubbing. Once you feel that he is clean enough, make sure that you rinse him well. If you have a sprayer, you might want to use that, as it will be more effective, but you don’t want to use a sprayer that has high water pressure, as this will likely startle your guinea pig.

Finally, remove your guinea pig from the water, and gently run your hands down his body, in an attempt to remove any excess water. Give him a good towel drying, and wrap him warmly in a dry towel. You can blow dry your guinea pig, but he most likely won’t like it much. If you do blow dry him, make sure that you use the lowest setting possible, don’t hold the dryer too close to him, and keep it moving.

Posted November 29, 2009 Comments(0)

While there are many reasons why you might want to own a guinea pig as a pet, there are also many reasons why you may talk yourself out of it as well. One of those reasons is the guinea pig’s ‘bathroom habits.’

You see, unlike cats, who will always use a litter box if there is one available, guinea pigs may not. So, how can you potty train your guinea pig?

Again, not all guinea pigs will take to using a litter box, although many will. It seems to be a matter of personal choice for the guinea pig. There are many things that you can do, however, to make the litter box more ‘attractive’ to your guinea pig.

Start by placing the litter box in the correct location inside your guinea pig’s pen. Like many other animals, guinea pigs will not eliminate in the same places that they eat or sleep. For this reason, you will most likely want to place the litter box on the opposite end of the pen from where your guinea pig eats and sleeps.

Next, realize that you must have a great deal of patience when training a guinea pig to use a litter box. There will be accidents. Also realize that guinea pigs don’t like to be ‘forced’ to do anything. You must be gentle in your reprimands, and you must keep a close eye on your guinea pig.

When he starts to eliminate outside of the litter box, you need to be ready to pick him up quickly, and to place him in the litter box. He is doing what comes naturally, but he can be taught with patience and effort.

Use the correct materials in the litter box. You can’t use regular cat litter. Your guinea pig will prefer either wooden or paper pellets for his litter box, and you can actually use the same bedding that you use in his pen as well.

Training a guinea pig to use a litter box should start shortly after you get him, but after he has already done his business in his pen a few times.

The idea here is to place the litter box in the spot that he has chosen for eliminating inside of the pen. Experts suggest placing some of his own fecal matter in the box, just so that he gets the idea more quickly. Do not use large, overwhelming litter boxes. A very small plastic box is all that is needed for a pet this size.

When your guinea pig uses the litter box, he should be rewarded for doing it correctly. Give him a small treat, and talk sweetly to him.

Believe it or not, he will remember this, and this may prompt him to repeat the action for more treats and praise. If you see the guinea pig sitting in his litter box, even when he isn’t eliminating, don’t discourage him. If you shoo him out of the box, he may become scared of it.

If for some reason your guinea pig turns the litter box into a bed, you should take steps to make his real bed more attractive to him, so that he will stop using as a bed what he deems as the more comfortable litter box.

If this continues to be a problem, change the material that you are using in the litter box to something that you are not using for his bedding.

Finally, keep your guinea pig confined to a small space, with the litter box inside, until he is using the litter box consistently, and then widen his space gradually until he uses the litter box each and every time that he eliminates, regardless of how far away the litter box is. A pen with expandable sides is ideal for this.

With patience and effort,  you can get your guinea pig potty trained, so that you can enjoy him or her without worrying about a mess in your house.

Posted November 27, 2009 Comments(0)

Handling your Guinea Pig

Many people don’t realize how important it is to handle their pet guinea pig, and to do so often. Do so very carefully though, as they flip and twist their bodies when frightened or nervous and could fall. A fall, even from a low height, can harm him very badly. When a guinea pig is not handled often, he becomes a bit wild, and the longer it has been since he has been handled by a human, the harder it is to convince him to be handled at all. It is much like a tame horse who goes for long periods of time without a rider – he becomes harder to saddle, and harder to handle.

Ideally, you should start out by handling your guinea pig once a day, for a short period of time. He may not like it at first, but he will gradually get used to it, and you will eventually be able to handle him for longer periods of time, several times each day. During the initial handling, do so on or close to the floor or a large bed, reducing the chance of a fall. Also, you will want to put down an old blanket or something you don’t value too much – being new, or a baby, he will not yet know where it is okay to relieve himself.

You might want to start by not actually picking the guinea pig up. Instead, when he is lying still, take the time to stroke him, so that he gets used to your touch. Don’t try to force him to stay where you can pet him. If he wants to move away from you, allow him to do so.

Once he allows you to pet him for extended periods of time, you should try holding him at least once a day. Again, don’t force him to him to stay in your arms. This may not only harm him, but could make him become fearful of you. This is the beginning of your bonding time with him.

It is easy to tempt a guinea pig with treats. Unfortunately, this isn’t really an ideal method for getting it adjusted to being handled. You will find that the guinea pig may accidentally nip your fingers when you are holding treats. The best way to avoid this is to use care when hand feeding the guinea pig. Holding the treat with its furthest end from his mouth is best. Actually, occasional treating, much like with a dog, can help in the bonding process.

Talk to your guinea pig often, especially when petting or feeding him so that he learns how to recognize your voice. Talk in a calm, soothing manner, and he will actually start listening for your comforting voice when he feels frightened or lonely. Also, by being used to the sound of your voice, he will be much easier to handle if you talk to him while doing so.
It is vital that you remember that guinea pigs scare easily. If you frighten him while he is sleeping, he could actually suffer a heart attack and die. Their heart valves will clamp closed from the shock.   Never ‘sneak up’ on a guinea pig as this could badly scare or startle him, and even create a setback of the bonding you have been working so hard on. Always start talking to him long before you actually touch him.

Finally, remember that the guinea pig is a small, fragile creature. Make sure that you handle him gently, and that children are supervised at all times.  When you pick him up, gently place one hand around his shoulders, and slide your other hand under him. Make sure that he is fully supported by your hand before you take his weight.

Once you lift him, bring him close to your body, so that he feels secure. Don’t hold him like a baby – tummy up. Instead, hold him with his tummy facing the floor. Never squeeze the guinea pig, as this can cause life threatening injuries.

If you allow children to hold your guinea pig, they should sit down, and you should hand them the guinea pig, by placing it in their arms. Never leave a child unattended with a guinea pig, as they could cause injury to the animal without meaning to.

Guinea pigs can be delicate, but treated gently, they will thrive on your attention.

Posted November 25, 2009 Comments(0)