Pet Goddess

We will discuss the basics of this health issue…..continued from part 4 (* previously covered: * Pneumonia * diarrhea * Constipation )

Fur problems

As they have very dense fur, chinchillas prone to fleas, mites and other parasites. They are also vulnerable to different types of fungi. Your pets fur may start to look limp or it may start to stick-up in patches. Also, in some cases, you might see that his whiskers are starting to become brittle and break off. Although he may still be running around happily at first, in a few days the discomfort will cause him to slow down and become lethargic. As soon as you notice this happening, take him in for a doctors visit. The Veterinarian will most likely prescribe a fungicidal powder to add to your pet’s dust bath.

- Fur Fungus
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- Three fungi found in “fur” disease:
* Microsporam canis….. A type of ringworm
* Microsporam gypseum……A type of ring worm
* Trychophyton mentagrophytes……A fungal disease of the hair, skin and nails found in animals and humans

- Signs of Ringworm

Chinchillas are very susceptible to ringworm. It is an extremely contagious fungus and can also infect you and your other pets. If you see any of the signs or are in any way concerned that your pet may have it, you will want to move him to an isolated spot, handle him wearing gloves and wash your hands immediately after any contact.

The most common signs that your pet is infected with this fungus will be a loss of fur around the nose, eyes, genitals and/or patches of balding areas. The bare-patches may also appear red and flaky and you may even see small lesions or scabs. These “spots” will be sore and itchy, causing him to scratch incessently and further spread the fungus.

- Causes.

Ringworm is often caused by a wet and dirty cage, damp or humid conditions or another infected pet or human, and if your chinchilla is overly stressed or sick, they can become more susceptible to it. Remember, ringworm is highly contagious; it is passed on by airborne spores or direct contact with an infected animal or human.

As you and your chinchilla begin spending more and more time together, he will start to look to you for help and comfort when he is not feeling well. To be the best a “Pet Parent” you can, you will always want to be there for him, so be sure to check him daily for any signs of illness or disease. If you find that you ever have ANY reason for concern, take him to your Veterinarian as soon as possible.

Posted January 16, 2010 Comments(0)

We will discuss the basics of each of these health issues…..continued from part 3 (* previously covered: * Eye problems * Ear, Nose and Mouth problems)

- Pneumonia
- Diarrhea
- Constipation
- Fur problems

Pneumonia

A runny nose is often the first sign that your chunchilla may be in serious health trouble. As noted before, this could be just a cold and can be treated at home, by you. But do not make the mistake of seeing the runny nose and, leaving it at that, treating stricky for a cold; pick him up and examine him closely. If your chinchilla is showing difficulty while breathing and/or it’s become raspy in sound AS WELL as having a runny nose, he may be developing pneumonia. You need to get your pet to the Veterinarian as soon as possible as pneumonia can become fatal in a matter of hours; at the very least, puts a lot of stress on their bodies.

Diarrhea

Diarrhoea is rather common, it is often a sign that your chinchilla, notably kits, have over-eaten. It can also be caused by eating food that had gone bad so be sure to throughly check the cage for any old left overs. Also, be sure to buy his food from a reputable place; even with newly boughten food, be sure to look through it carefully though, as many grains and seed-type foods are stored in warehouses for long periods of time. Loose stools can also be caused by a sudden change in diet, too many greens or stress and, it is often another symptom seen with pneumonia. If you are not able to bring it under control within a couple of days, you will want to make a trip to see your Verterinarian.

Constipation

Constipation is usually caused by dehydration, a sudden change in diet, or stress. If your chinchilla becomes constipated you will notice that he is producing less droppings. He may also appear lathargic and/or bloated to you. To help prevent this, be sure that he has plenty of fresh water every day. Also, make sure that he is getting enough exercise; take him out to play every day for at least an hour at a time. Look into his diet as well, be sure that he is getting plenty of fibre and not too many treats. Sometimes a change in diet, done gradually, will clear-up the problem. If the condition continues to worsen dispite your efforts, consult your Veterinarian.

(continued in part 5…Fur Problems)

Posted January 14, 2010 Comments(0)

The average Life Span of a chinchilla ranges from 8 – 10 years and they have been known to live for as long as 18 years. While it is of course important to keep your pet warm, it is also important to know that they can easily suffer and die from heat stroke; the best range of environmental temperature for them is between 60 and 75 degress farenheight and their body temperature should fall between 97 and 100 degress farenheit.

It is important to know your chinchillas life expectancy, his needed external temperatures and his optimum body temperature but watching these things and adhearing to what he needs to live a long and healthy life are not garantees that he will not become ill at some point in his life. You could be doing everything possible to keep him healthy, from proper feeding, to providing a healthy living environment, to regular visits with his doctor, but he may still become sick or injured.

Below is a listing of the illnesses most common for a chinchilla:
- Eye problems
- Ear, Nose and Mouth problems
- Pneumonia
- Diarrhoea
- Constipation
- Fur problems

We will discuss the basics of each of these health issues…..

Eye Problems

Healthy eyes are clear and glistening. If you notice any discharge, or the eyelids are inflamed and sore looking, it is a good indication that they are irritated and/or infected. This can be treated with medication you will obtain from your Veterinarian. If your chinchilla is rubbing or scratching at his eyes, you obviously won’t be able to stop him and will need to get to the doctor as soon as possible before irreversable damage is done.

Ear and Nose problems

- Ears
If your chinchilla is scratching at, or there is any discharge from his ears or if he shows difficulty with balance and direction, you should take your chinchilla to his doctor. When you get him home, do not let him take a dust bath until the Veterinarian gives you the “all clear”.

- Runny Nose
Discharge from the nose may mean that your chinchilla has a cold. Keep him warm and make sure that you provide a lot of fresh water. You can put pieces of carrot in a dish of water, he will get the extra needed water by eating the pieces.You can also place a cool-mist humidifier or vaporizer next to the cage, placing a towel over the back and sides of his little “home”. This should help clear the problem. If the conditions worsen, take your chinchilla to the vet.

Mouth problems

Your chinchillas is a rodents, and being such means that his teeth will grow continuously throughout his life. Therefore, it is very important to ensure that he always has something to chew and wear his teeth down on on. If the teeth become overgrown, it can make it very difficult for your pet to eat; he will lose weight and become weak and, therefore, more susceptible to illness.
Other signs that the teeth have become too long will be drooling, pawing at the mouth or swelling around the area. It may become necessary to take your chinchilla to the Veterinarian to have his teeth trimmed. Normally, this can be avoided by supplying the proper types and amounts of chewing materials.

- Malocclusion
Unfortunately, many chinchillas suffer from a dental problem known as malocclusion. With this condition, the upper and lower teeth elongate and the roots grow into the eye and brain. This is very painful for your pet and if it’s become severe enough, can lead to having to mercifully have him put to sleep.

- continued in the next post (1/14/10)

Posted January 12, 2010 Comments(0)

In your desire to be the best “pet parent” you can be, you will want to regularly check for any signs your chinchilla may be sick. Things to look for will be things like loss of appetite, loss of hair, drooling or swelling around the mouth, cuts or sores under his fur and lethargy. These could be signs of serious illness in your pet, so be sure to examine your chinchilla very closely on a daily basis.

Take the time to get to know your individual chinchilla(s); any thing out of his everyday, normal routine could be the sign of an illness.

Here is a quick, ten point, check list for you to follow when looking your pet over every day:

* eating or drinking more or less than normal
* difficulty in eating, drinking or moving
* coat that looks dull, is soiled or itchy; also look for any cuts or lumps
* discharge from the eyes, ears or nose
* soiling around his “bottom end” with feces or urine
* restlessness or lethargy – crouching or huddling in a corner or against the sides
* more or less urine, or an unusual color to it
* a foul odor comming from the ears, mouth or “bottom-end”
* feces that is abnormal in texture or color
* difficult or raspy breathing from the chest

A healthy chinchilla will have bright eyes, fresh breath, alert expressions, high energy and a good appetite. His fur should be smooth, shiny and full. He should also be very agile, move quickly around the cage and run excitedly to the cage door at feeding time. And, he should show a need, a demand, for social interaction with you and/or any cage mates he may have.

Again, be sure to note the importantance of getting to know your pets particular habits, patterns and reactions as being prey animals, chinchillas most often will not show any signs of illness until the condition is very bad; they are experts at hiding their sickness sometimes to the point of it becoming too late for affective treatment.

Chinchillas are by nature quite hardy creatures. However, they can suffer from a number of conditions and illnesses and it is important to detect these signs at an early stage. Getting to know your pet by handling, grooming and feeding him is most essential in recognising if there is a problem.

The first areas you will most likely notice when you pet’s health is suffering:

- The eyes
- The mouth
- The nose
- The ears
- The fur
- The droppings

Of course if you see anything that is imminent, get your little one as quickly to his Veterinarian as possible. But if you start noticing signs of him slowing down or any begining issues with the areas noted above, try to note down what you observe. Also, it is a good idea if you can take a fecal sample with you. Another important thing……do not attempt to “clean him up” before his visit; it will be very helpful for the doctor to actually see any discharge, blood-spots or build up of urine or feces for himself.

Be observant……getting to know your chinchilla(s) and getting him to his doctor as quickly as possible when ill could mean the difference between life or death for your little pet.

Posted January 10, 2010 Comments(0)

Consulting your veterinarian is always going to be the best defense against any illness your pet chinchilla may come down with; with a phone call you can speak with him or her about any symptoms, concerns or to just ask questions. It is also important to schedule regular check-ups for your little guy or gal.

Chinchillas are an exotic pet so a veterinarian who specializes in exotic pets is the best choice for you and your pet. The veterinarian and his assistants will also most likely offer you some literature and suggestions on how to improve the care and health of your pet chinchilla.

Even though chinchillas are normally very healthy, there is a good chance that at some point in his life yours will at the very least have some kind of mild form of illness. Chinchillas are quick, agile, sturdy and very active little creatures. But, do not let this appearance fool you; the chinchilla is really quite fragile underneath its soft furry little coat.

A chinchilla’s bones are fragile and therefore can be easily broken. If you grasp one too tightly you could hurt or even injure him. Most accidents are caused by rough handling; even though the owner does not mean to injure the pet, it does happen. Children, especially small children, should always be supervised while handling or playing with your chinchilla for this reason.

Some helpful tips to remember when you have a pet chinchilla are:

1.) Always be sure to first chinchilla proof any room you allow your pet to play in.
2.) Monitor and keep the pet in this area when out of his cage.
3.) Never allow your chinchilla to chew on anything made of plastic.
4.) Keep power cords up and out of his reach.
5.) Do not let your pet climb on anything unstable as it could fall on him.
6.) Never allow your pet anywhere near cleaning products or chemicals.

In considering number six above, there is something particular to note about small pet rodents; a classification under which your chinchilla falls. These little animals suffer extreme difficulty when exposed to the strong odors of chemicals. Your chinchilla breaths in and out rapidly, so he will all the more quickly breathe them in.

These “airbornes” can be very harmful to the health of your chinchilla and could even kill him if he is exposed to them for any length of time. Depending on the density or toxicity, irreparable harm could be caused in a matter of seconds. Also, being very inquisitive little animals, they may even lick the container sides or any “pooling” around the bottom. So, just as you would for a small child, put these types of product up and out of reach.

Posted January 8, 2010 Comments(0)

As the chinchilla kits begin to show an interest in food, you can assist in the weaning process, and start “food-training” them by feeding them chinchilla pellets that have been softened with water. Even though they are born with a full set of teeth, the softened food will be gentler on their little mouths, and will make for an easier, smoother transition from mother’s milk to solid foods.

Soon, usually less than a week, you will see them taking pellets or other food items from their parents bowel to nibbled on; this is a good sign that their innate need and desire to chew is developing nicely. Around the same time they should also start picking up and nibbling on the “chew stones”, sticks and other chewing items that are in the cage.

The kits will need constant access to fresh food daily as their bodies demand for nutrition and calories is very high while growing and developing. The onset of eating solid foods and chewing will also trigger the continuous growth characteristic of the chinchillas’ teeth. Be sure to add extra chews to accommodate their needs.

Aside from the extra nutrition and calories needed by a growing kit, the types and kinds of foods provided need not be any different than that of the adults. Just be sure that an adult is not “bullying” the kits away from the food or eating it all up before the little ones get a chance to meet their needs. A side concern is an adult eating too much and growing obese.

If any or all of the afore mentioned concerns become an issue, you may need to temporarily move the “offending” chinchilla to another cage. Surprisingly enough though, a kit can more often than not “hold his own” and they will all live in harmony with each getting their individual needs fulfilled. You main job will be to provide enough fresh food to accommodate the additional new tummies while being sure to not add too much.

A baby chinchilla can become pregnant as soon as five to six months of age so be sure to be prepared for this by having the needed number of cages in order to separate the males from the females, this includes the kits from the adults as well. A pregnancy that occurs too early will result in a baby chinchilla having kits too young which can cause serious complications while giving birth as well as in any future attempts at breeding.

Your baby Chinchillas’ should be checked by your Veterinarian not too long after birth; taking the whole litter and parents in at the same time is best. After, an annual visit should suffice. If something appears amiss at birth or the mother shows signs of straining with no resulting births, take all concerned in to be seen immediately!

As you continue to “hand-train” them, the baby chinchillas’ will eventually begin to show affection toward you; the more you handle them, the closer the two of you will grow. This is an avenue for them to let you know that they love you as much as you love them.

Posted January 2, 2010 Comments(0)

So, you’ve decided to breed your chinchillas’ or, perhaps you have become a chinchilla “parent” through no hand of your own; a male and female, housed together have produced these tiny, delightful little creatures, called Kits, on their own. Or, yet still, maybe you have decided to start out by obtaining a weaned kit from a breeder. In any event, there are a few basics that you will need to know.

In the following we will discuss the few special needs and characteristics of chinchilla kits: 

Pet chinchillas are normally born even-tempered. This is because the parents were good-natured and you or the breeder took two chinchillas with good temperament and allowed for them to breed. It is best to try and not disturb a chinchilla or her newly-born babies for a week or so after the birth; doing so could greatly distress the mother. You should give the new, little family at least a week of relatively “undisturbed” time; this is their bonding time, an important factor in promoting good, even temperment.

Although “hand-training” a kit is neither difficult or extensive, it does take some time and patience. Also, like most any youngster, the chinchilla kits will follow the lead of their parents. Due to this nurture and nature, they will become more easily handled and make wonderful companions.

The mother will carry the babies for about 111 days before giving birth. Being nocturnal animals, mothers will often go into “labor” during the night, giving birth in the early morning hours. A mother will deliver anywhere from one to about five kits; the average number being three.

The babies are born with all their hair, a full set of teeth and eyes wide open. As all development, with the exception of growth, occurs within the womb, they look just like a miniature version of the parents, weighing about one to three ounces.

Although they will be kept very close by the mother for the next several days, it’s not long before these inquisitive little creatures will start trying to exploring their surroundings, often much to the exasperation of their mother who will pull in one only to have it wander out again as she goes for the next.

Chinchilla babies need to stay with their mother for six to seven weeks until they are weaned. During this time the mother’s milk will be all that they need to keep them strong, healthy and growing.  After the kits have had time to adjust to their new surroundings and bond with their mother, you will want to start handling them. This will get them used to being touched and picked-up by not only you, but humans in general.

At first take them out together or with a parent as this will give them a sense of security. Then you can gradually, a bit more each day, start taking them out individually and for longer periods of time. The more time they spend out with you, the more they will become used to human contact. If you plan to sell the babies, practicing these slow and gentle “outings” on a regular basis will make for a friendly, well balanced and therefore more valuable pet.

A happy, well adjusted pet is all that more likely to have a happy and loving home.

Posted December 31, 2009 Comments(0)

You can also get your chinchilla a hopper type feeder, again obtaining either metal or ceramic. This will discourage your pet from wasting his food by inadvertently, though sometimes purposely, pushing the food up and over the sides. If you see that you have a “food pusher”, while using a bowl, switching to a hopper is going to be your best bet. These are also very nice and convenient to use as you will not have to worry about refilling it daily; just be sure to check it every day.

As mention before, treats can be added to your chinchillas’ daily diet as well. If you find something your chinchilla really likes as a treat then give him a bit every day. Be sure to keep the treat amount to a minimum though as this could upset your little friends tummy as well as promote finicky eating behavior. Treats are a nice way to strengthen the bond between you and your pet and can also be used as a “positive reinforcement” tool for rewarding good behavior. Keep the treats to all natural, unsalted and dye free foods; added sugar, salt and colorings can upset little stomachs and/or cause diarrhea.

Your chinchilla will also need things to chew on daily. These “chew things” help keep his “ever-growing” teeth filed down. “Chewing-stones“ and all-natural chew sticks can be purchased from your local pet shop. You can scatter them around your chinchilla’s cage and/or fill a bowl with them for him to chew on when he wants to. It is best to actually place them in the cage rather than hand them out like a treat as he will be unable to let you know when he feels the need to chew. If not provided, your chinchilla’s teeth will continue to grow, unchecked. This can cause difficulty when trying to eat and his teeth can even grow so long as to cut into the gums. This can not only seriously interfere with eating but can be painful and even cause infection.

If you notice drooling, swelling around the mouth or a sudden lack of interest in food, he may not be chewing as much as he needs to be or you are not providing him with enough of or the types of “chew things” he prefers and he will need to be taken to your Veterinarian for his teeth to be trimmed down. This is an added cost that normally can easily be avoided. Having his teeth professionally trimmed in the place of offering enough, or the preferred things for him to chew on will not only cause your little friend undue stress but also deny him his innate need and desire to chew. Occasionally, you can be doing everything possible but his teeth either grow too fast for him to keep up with or he is one of the few, unusual chinchillas’ that just will not chew the needed amount.

Clean blocks of untreated wood or sterilized and stripped down tree limbs can be added to your pets cage, at no extra cost to you as these are things that can found in or out-side of your own home. A tree limb taken from outside needs to be stripped of the bark, cleaned and sterilized before being offered to your furry, little friend; “un-clean”, this can carry in and transfer to the cage and your pet, unwanted parasites and bugs. Needless to say, this is something that you do NOT want to introduce to his little world.

You can sterilize it by steaming it with a fabric steamer or placing it in the bathtub and running very hot water for several minuets. Another nice, natural piece of wood you could use is a piece of driftwood; be sure to clean and sterilize it as well. Driftwood can be found along river and lake beds as well as the ocean’s edge. One great idea is to obtain a limb or piece of driftwood that is big enough for your chinchilla to climb, play and sleep on as well as chew; it will be an attractive, as well natural addition. Just be sure that it is not so big as to overwhelm the inside of the cage.

Using common sense and the provided guide-lines will ensure that you and your chinchilla enjoy a long, fun-filled and loving life together.

Posted December 29, 2009 Comments(0)

Chinchillas need to be fed fresh food on a daily basis. There are many types of chinchilla food or pellets available on the market today, providing you with several good quality brands for your pet for you to choose from. This will provide your chinchilla with everything he needs to maintain a healthy diet. In order to supplement his diet, give him fresh fruits, vegetables and nuts. Foods like carrots, apples, lettuce and different types of unsalted nuts will round out his diet as well as keep his tummy happy.

Do not give him any kind of citrus fruit though, these fruits are much too acidic for him and can make him very sick. Their tastes in food can be as varied as ours so you may need to try a few different types of food before you hit on the ones that he likes best; just be sure that his intake is balanced. You can hide bits of his favorite treats in the bedding of his cage. This will provide amusement for you and him as his innate foraging behavior will have him digging and “snow-plowing” his nose through the bedding to “forage” for the hidden bits of food.

Chinchilla food comes in two different major forms; one is a loose mixture of things chinchillas like to eat, like nuts, seeds, and fruits. These are dehydrated and come in a bagged mixture. This is a good food for your chinchillas’ daily, main staple however, he may pick out the things he prefers and leave several remaining things in the bowl, which can be wasteful as well as keep your pet from acquiring everything he needs for a balanced diet. If he is only “passing over” one or two things, you can supplement these with something else he does like. But, if he is not eating the majority of it you will need to try another basic food source.

This takes us to the second major type of basic food. Chinchilla food also comes in the form of a pellet. Though rabbit pellets are not a suitable long-term substitute, they are much the same as chinchilla pellets. These pellets are made by grinding up the different types of ingredients in the above mention bagged mixture then mixing a sweetened, sticky substance with he ground formula. This mixture is then pressed out through a die, forming the pellets. These pellets are completely formulated for your chinchilla and have everything he needs to stay healthy; another sure way to know your chinchilla is getting what he needs to maintain a healthy and balanced diet.

You will need to get a bowl for your chinchilla that he is unable to chew up to put his food in; remember DO NOT use plastic, of any kind. Even very hard plastic can be chewed up by a chinchilla as their teeth are adapted to gnawing through hard woods and, harder still, nut casings. Small pet bowls of all shapes and sizes can be found at your local pet store. Some stores may tell you that a certain type of hard plastic bowl will be “un-chewable“ but it is safest to place your bet with your chinchilla’s jaw strength and determination.

A bottom-weighted metal or ceramic bowl will work best as the weight will keep your pet from tipping the bowl over and spilling the food. Another amusing thing to watch: chinchillas’ will often, no matter how small the bowl is in comparison to his own size, “perch” on the edge of the bowl as he eats. It appears that they may be trying to dominate the food source as they will often try to “run off” another chinchilla who approaches the bowl when he is thus “perched”. If you do indeed have more than one, which is recommended, (two females is best unless you plan to breed them) and it looks as if you have a bit of a “bully” in the cage then using two bowls, placed at opposite ends of the cage should solve the issue.

Posted December 27, 2009 Comments(0)

While cleaning and disinfecting the cage a good scrub brush or pad would be very helpful especially when cleaning the bottom. Scrub top, bottom and all sides of it. Start with the top first, this will keep anything that is on the top of the cage from falling down onto the bottom while you are cleaning that part of it; it will save you the time and trouble of having to go back over parts that you’ve already cleaned. Another thing that would be of help is a good, thick pair of rubber, kitchen gloves. The gloves will protect your hands from the harsh cleanser as well as keep them clean during the clean-up.

If you are able to clean the cage out-side, hopefully you will also have access to a water hose as this works great for rinsing after you are done. After you have cleaned and disinfected your chinchilla cage, you will need to let it dry. Just a few hours in the sun, or open air in a room in your home if cleaned inside, will dry the cage nicely as well as give it a good “airing-out”. This is the time to clean under the cage as well; when it is removed from it’s normal resting place.

Now that your chinchillas’ cage is cleaned, disinfected and dried, you can start putting it all back together. Putting about a half inch, first layer of cat litter down is very helpful in reducing odors but be sure to cover this with a softer bedding material of some kind. Although you will find several different types of bedding for small animals available at you local pet store, keep in mind that a feed store (if one is available near you) will have more natural types of bedding. “Natural”, as used here, means materials like untreated-wood shavings, small wood chips and different types of hay (several kinds of hay are also sold in pet stores).

Timothy hay is not only nutritious to eat but is great as a nesting material and can be found in pet as well as feed stores. As a low-energy, high-fiber, nutritious pet food, this hay is a natural, healthy food your small pet will love. Plus, the constant chewing needed to break these foods down helps wear down and clean your pet’s teeth. As a nesting material, Timothy hay will have your pet believing he’s foraging in the wild for materials (hide bits of carrot, apple….etc in it); it is sold with no preservatives, colorings, or additives. Hay can also provide entertainment, as your pet will burrow through and build nests out of it.

Alfalfa hay is sold in pet and feed stores in tightly compressed compact blocks and although nutritious, should be given as a snack rather than used as a “free-feeding” lining for the bottom of the cage as it is extremely rich in calories and contains a very high percentage of calcium. Amusing to watch, he’ll toss one around like a toy, stopping from time to time to nibble on it. A few other natural, edible and bedding “hays” are Orchard, Brome, and Bermuda grass and Oat hay.

Reattach the water bottle and food bowls. You will also want to provide your chinchilla with new chew toys: throw the old ones away. Like the bedding, you can find wooden chew-sticks as well as other types of things specially made for small pets to chew on and play with at a pet store; these “things” will provide a way to wear-down his “ever-growing” teeth and keep him occupied and from becoming lonely when left to himself. You can also buy a little “hut”, or hutch that you can put inside the cage for him to hide out or sleep in. There are also toys made specifically for small animals like chinchillas. These can be balls to roll around and chase or things to suspend from the top or sides of the cage.

One important note: ALL things, bowels, toys, chews, “huts”…..etc NEED to be made of some kind of metal or, ideally, ceramic. In the case of chews— wood, plain raw-hide or some other, edible, material is needed. Rubber (unless extremely hard and small pet approved) and especially plastic should NEVER be used for any small, “rodent-like” animal! These animals all but live to chew and will do so on just about anything they can get a hold of. If allowed to chew on plastic, rubber or even fabric they could choke, cut the inside of their mouth or end-up with a perforated stomach or intestine!

Now that you’ve gotten your chinchilla set-up and comfortable, you will most likely need, and want to, look at the area around his cage. In their rowdy play and just everyday living, chinchillas tend to push some of their cage-contents out through the side openings. Ths just comes with the “territory” of being a “small-pet-parent”. For this small clean-up project you’ll want to sweep or vacuum. A shop vacuum cleaner works well for the removal of hay, pellets and any other items that have been pushed out. It will also have the power to suck-up particles embedded deep into the carpet.

You and your furry little friend are now “good-to-go” for another week of fun and play.

Posted December 25, 2009 Comments(0)