Pet Goddess

We will discuss the basics of this health issue…..continued from part 4 (* previously covered: * Pneumonia * diarrhea * Constipation )

Fur problems

As they have very dense fur, chinchillas prone to fleas, mites and other parasites. They are also vulnerable to different types of fungi. Your pets fur may start to look limp or it may start to stick-up in patches. Also, in some cases, you might see that his whiskers are starting to become brittle and break off. Although he may still be running around happily at first, in a few days the discomfort will cause him to slow down and become lethargic. As soon as you notice this happening, take him in for a doctors visit. The Veterinarian will most likely prescribe a fungicidal powder to add to your pet’s dust bath.

- Fur Fungus
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- Three fungi found in “fur” disease:
* Microsporam canis….. A type of ringworm
* Microsporam gypseum……A type of ring worm
* Trychophyton mentagrophytes……A fungal disease of the hair, skin and nails found in animals and humans

- Signs of Ringworm

Chinchillas are very susceptible to ringworm. It is an extremely contagious fungus and can also infect you and your other pets. If you see any of the signs or are in any way concerned that your pet may have it, you will want to move him to an isolated spot, handle him wearing gloves and wash your hands immediately after any contact.

The most common signs that your pet is infected with this fungus will be a loss of fur around the nose, eyes, genitals and/or patches of balding areas. The bare-patches may also appear red and flaky and you may even see small lesions or scabs. These “spots” will be sore and itchy, causing him to scratch incessently and further spread the fungus.

- Causes.

Ringworm is often caused by a wet and dirty cage, damp or humid conditions or another infected pet or human, and if your chinchilla is overly stressed or sick, they can become more susceptible to it. Remember, ringworm is highly contagious; it is passed on by airborne spores or direct contact with an infected animal or human.

As you and your chinchilla begin spending more and more time together, he will start to look to you for help and comfort when he is not feeling well. To be the best a “Pet Parent” you can, you will always want to be there for him, so be sure to check him daily for any signs of illness or disease. If you find that you ever have ANY reason for concern, take him to your Veterinarian as soon as possible.

Posted January 16, 2010 Comments(0)

We will discuss the basics of each of these health issues…..continued from part 3 (* previously covered: * Eye problems * Ear, Nose and Mouth problems)

- Pneumonia
- Diarrhea
- Constipation
- Fur problems

Pneumonia

A runny nose is often the first sign that your chunchilla may be in serious health trouble. As noted before, this could be just a cold and can be treated at home, by you. But do not make the mistake of seeing the runny nose and, leaving it at that, treating stricky for a cold; pick him up and examine him closely. If your chinchilla is showing difficulty while breathing and/or it’s become raspy in sound AS WELL as having a runny nose, he may be developing pneumonia. You need to get your pet to the Veterinarian as soon as possible as pneumonia can become fatal in a matter of hours; at the very least, puts a lot of stress on their bodies.

Diarrhea

Diarrhoea is rather common, it is often a sign that your chinchilla, notably kits, have over-eaten. It can also be caused by eating food that had gone bad so be sure to throughly check the cage for any old left overs. Also, be sure to buy his food from a reputable place; even with newly boughten food, be sure to look through it carefully though, as many grains and seed-type foods are stored in warehouses for long periods of time. Loose stools can also be caused by a sudden change in diet, too many greens or stress and, it is often another symptom seen with pneumonia. If you are not able to bring it under control within a couple of days, you will want to make a trip to see your Verterinarian.

Constipation

Constipation is usually caused by dehydration, a sudden change in diet, or stress. If your chinchilla becomes constipated you will notice that he is producing less droppings. He may also appear lathargic and/or bloated to you. To help prevent this, be sure that he has plenty of fresh water every day. Also, make sure that he is getting enough exercise; take him out to play every day for at least an hour at a time. Look into his diet as well, be sure that he is getting plenty of fibre and not too many treats. Sometimes a change in diet, done gradually, will clear-up the problem. If the condition continues to worsen dispite your efforts, consult your Veterinarian.

(continued in part 5…Fur Problems)

Posted January 14, 2010 Comments(0)

The average Life Span of a chinchilla ranges from 8 – 10 years and they have been known to live for as long as 18 years. While it is of course important to keep your pet warm, it is also important to know that they can easily suffer and die from heat stroke; the best range of environmental temperature for them is between 60 and 75 degress farenheight and their body temperature should fall between 97 and 100 degress farenheit.

It is important to know your chinchillas life expectancy, his needed external temperatures and his optimum body temperature but watching these things and adhearing to what he needs to live a long and healthy life are not garantees that he will not become ill at some point in his life. You could be doing everything possible to keep him healthy, from proper feeding, to providing a healthy living environment, to regular visits with his doctor, but he may still become sick or injured.

Below is a listing of the illnesses most common for a chinchilla:
- Eye problems
- Ear, Nose and Mouth problems
- Pneumonia
- Diarrhoea
- Constipation
- Fur problems

We will discuss the basics of each of these health issues…..

Eye Problems

Healthy eyes are clear and glistening. If you notice any discharge, or the eyelids are inflamed and sore looking, it is a good indication that they are irritated and/or infected. This can be treated with medication you will obtain from your Veterinarian. If your chinchilla is rubbing or scratching at his eyes, you obviously won’t be able to stop him and will need to get to the doctor as soon as possible before irreversable damage is done.

Ear and Nose problems

- Ears
If your chinchilla is scratching at, or there is any discharge from his ears or if he shows difficulty with balance and direction, you should take your chinchilla to his doctor. When you get him home, do not let him take a dust bath until the Veterinarian gives you the “all clear”.

- Runny Nose
Discharge from the nose may mean that your chinchilla has a cold. Keep him warm and make sure that you provide a lot of fresh water. You can put pieces of carrot in a dish of water, he will get the extra needed water by eating the pieces.You can also place a cool-mist humidifier or vaporizer next to the cage, placing a towel over the back and sides of his little “home”. This should help clear the problem. If the conditions worsen, take your chinchilla to the vet.

Mouth problems

Your chinchillas is a rodents, and being such means that his teeth will grow continuously throughout his life. Therefore, it is very important to ensure that he always has something to chew and wear his teeth down on on. If the teeth become overgrown, it can make it very difficult for your pet to eat; he will lose weight and become weak and, therefore, more susceptible to illness.
Other signs that the teeth have become too long will be drooling, pawing at the mouth or swelling around the area. It may become necessary to take your chinchilla to the Veterinarian to have his teeth trimmed. Normally, this can be avoided by supplying the proper types and amounts of chewing materials.

- Malocclusion
Unfortunately, many chinchillas suffer from a dental problem known as malocclusion. With this condition, the upper and lower teeth elongate and the roots grow into the eye and brain. This is very painful for your pet and if it’s become severe enough, can lead to having to mercifully have him put to sleep.

- continued in the next post (1/14/10)

Posted January 12, 2010 Comments(0)

In your desire to be the best “pet parent” you can be, you will want to regularly check for any signs your chinchilla may be sick. Things to look for will be things like loss of appetite, loss of hair, drooling or swelling around the mouth, cuts or sores under his fur and lethargy. These could be signs of serious illness in your pet, so be sure to examine your chinchilla very closely on a daily basis.

Take the time to get to know your individual chinchilla(s); any thing out of his everyday, normal routine could be the sign of an illness.

Here is a quick, ten point, check list for you to follow when looking your pet over every day:

* eating or drinking more or less than normal
* difficulty in eating, drinking or moving
* coat that looks dull, is soiled or itchy; also look for any cuts or lumps
* discharge from the eyes, ears or nose
* soiling around his “bottom end” with feces or urine
* restlessness or lethargy – crouching or huddling in a corner or against the sides
* more or less urine, or an unusual color to it
* a foul odor comming from the ears, mouth or “bottom-end”
* feces that is abnormal in texture or color
* difficult or raspy breathing from the chest

A healthy chinchilla will have bright eyes, fresh breath, alert expressions, high energy and a good appetite. His fur should be smooth, shiny and full. He should also be very agile, move quickly around the cage and run excitedly to the cage door at feeding time. And, he should show a need, a demand, for social interaction with you and/or any cage mates he may have.

Again, be sure to note the importantance of getting to know your pets particular habits, patterns and reactions as being prey animals, chinchillas most often will not show any signs of illness until the condition is very bad; they are experts at hiding their sickness sometimes to the point of it becoming too late for affective treatment.

Chinchillas are by nature quite hardy creatures. However, they can suffer from a number of conditions and illnesses and it is important to detect these signs at an early stage. Getting to know your pet by handling, grooming and feeding him is most essential in recognising if there is a problem.

The first areas you will most likely notice when you pet’s health is suffering:

- The eyes
- The mouth
- The nose
- The ears
- The fur
- The droppings

Of course if you see anything that is imminent, get your little one as quickly to his Veterinarian as possible. But if you start noticing signs of him slowing down or any begining issues with the areas noted above, try to note down what you observe. Also, it is a good idea if you can take a fecal sample with you. Another important thing……do not attempt to “clean him up” before his visit; it will be very helpful for the doctor to actually see any discharge, blood-spots or build up of urine or feces for himself.

Be observant……getting to know your chinchilla(s) and getting him to his doctor as quickly as possible when ill could mean the difference between life or death for your little pet.

Posted January 10, 2010 Comments(0)

Consulting your veterinarian is always going to be the best defense against any illness your pet chinchilla may come down with; with a phone call you can speak with him or her about any symptoms, concerns or to just ask questions. It is also important to schedule regular check-ups for your little guy or gal.

Chinchillas are an exotic pet so a veterinarian who specializes in exotic pets is the best choice for you and your pet. The veterinarian and his assistants will also most likely offer you some literature and suggestions on how to improve the care and health of your pet chinchilla.

Even though chinchillas are normally very healthy, there is a good chance that at some point in his life yours will at the very least have some kind of mild form of illness. Chinchillas are quick, agile, sturdy and very active little creatures. But, do not let this appearance fool you; the chinchilla is really quite fragile underneath its soft furry little coat.

A chinchilla’s bones are fragile and therefore can be easily broken. If you grasp one too tightly you could hurt or even injure him. Most accidents are caused by rough handling; even though the owner does not mean to injure the pet, it does happen. Children, especially small children, should always be supervised while handling or playing with your chinchilla for this reason.

Some helpful tips to remember when you have a pet chinchilla are:

1.) Always be sure to first chinchilla proof any room you allow your pet to play in.
2.) Monitor and keep the pet in this area when out of his cage.
3.) Never allow your chinchilla to chew on anything made of plastic.
4.) Keep power cords up and out of his reach.
5.) Do not let your pet climb on anything unstable as it could fall on him.
6.) Never allow your pet anywhere near cleaning products or chemicals.

In considering number six above, there is something particular to note about small pet rodents; a classification under which your chinchilla falls. These little animals suffer extreme difficulty when exposed to the strong odors of chemicals. Your chinchilla breaths in and out rapidly, so he will all the more quickly breathe them in.

These “airbornes” can be very harmful to the health of your chinchilla and could even kill him if he is exposed to them for any length of time. Depending on the density or toxicity, irreparable harm could be caused in a matter of seconds. Also, being very inquisitive little animals, they may even lick the container sides or any “pooling” around the bottom. So, just as you would for a small child, put these types of product up and out of reach.

Posted January 8, 2010 Comments(0)

As the different colored chinchillas are becoming more common, they are becoming less expensive although some, like the black-velvet, still tend to be a little higher in price. Some colors are more common than others so the price of them will vary. Today, prices for chinchillas range from about $100.00 to $300.00 for the original greys and the more common colors, to $1500.00 to $3000.00 for unusual colored and/or show quality ones.

If you decide to obtain a chinchilla that is of a color other than the original grey, or even more so, if you wish to start breeding mutants yourself, although there are many things you should research, one situation you’ll want to be sure to know of is the occurrence of a “lethal factor” when breeding them.

For instance, the Wilson White and Black Velvet chinchillas carry a genetic lethal factor, thus breeding two whites together will result in 25% fewer kits, and breeding a Black Velvet or any TOV (touch of velvet) color to any other Black Velvet or TOV color will also result in 25 percent fewer kits.

And, if White + White or Velvet + Velvet results from a breeding, the embryo will never develop but be reabsorbed by the mother. It is also believed that this may result in a blocked uterine horn (chinchillas have two horns to their uterus that branch out from the cervix) which could render the mother sterile.

Often, names are made up to describe patterns that show up on a mutant animal. It is important to note that patterns are not colors. For example, mosaics are not mutated colors; the word mosaic only describes the pattern on an animal’s fur.

A mosaic chinchilla is a WHITE chinchilla, and they can have completely different patterns from animal to animal. If you would like to own a “one of a kind” pet, choosing a mosaic chinchilla will provide for more uniqueness than even one of the more unusual colors.

Much more information on common colors and mutated colors can be found in libraries or on the internet if you are looking to learn how to breed and maintain a specific chinchilla color

Posted January 6, 2010 Comments(0)

Chinchillas that were brought from the wild back to America had a medium to dark grey fur; this is the natural, original color of these animals. Over the many years since chinchillas were first brought here, many new colors have come about. These additional hues were created by breeders breeding in different mutant colored chinchillas to acquire specific colored coats. Now, chinchillas’ can be found in many different colors as well as the original grays.

If you are looking for a chinchilla as a pet only, you may not care much about what color it is; any color will do as long as the chinchilla is healthy and even tempered. Remember, the animal itself does not know nor care about the color of it’s fur; what is most important for your pet is a good, healthy, loving life and home. Be sure to learn everything about them and their needs as you can.

A chinchilla of the original grey hue has dark grey along the back, with the sides having a lighter color grey. Now, you can also find chinchillas with fur of beige, and beige with red tints on the body and ears. This color will sometimes have pink on its ears, and the eyes are often a bright red color; this is the form of a near albino chinchilla. A true albino will have no pigmentation (color) whatsoever and the result will be a completely “snow-white” fur along with bright red eyes.

Another color that is even more sought after than the beautiful albino, is the black or black-velvet. There is also a chinchilla that is called violet colored, but it is not purple at all. It is called violet because it is so deeply black that it has a purple tint to it in certain light; this violet color is also more apparent in direct sunlight and is the rarest color of all. A deep blue or a sapphire chinchilla is also a highly in-demand hue seen more in today’s times.

These different colors all came from the continued trial and error on the part of breeders. There are yet still other beautiful colors found in chinchillas. Many years of breeding specific colors to other colors resulted in the mutant hues observed today. Be that as it may, there are only 6 original/accepted colors for a chinchilla.

1. Standard (the original color)
2. White
3. Ebony
4. Beige
5. Sapphire
6. Violet

You can find a listing of many of the “sub-colors” now available at: www.fortheloveofchinchillas.com/mutations

Posted January 4, 2010 Comments(0)

While cleaning and disinfecting the cage a good scrub brush or pad would be very helpful especially when cleaning the bottom. Scrub top, bottom and all sides of it. Start with the top first, this will keep anything that is on the top of the cage from falling down onto the bottom while you are cleaning that part of it; it will save you the time and trouble of having to go back over parts that you’ve already cleaned. Another thing that would be of help is a good, thick pair of rubber, kitchen gloves. The gloves will protect your hands from the harsh cleanser as well as keep them clean during the clean-up.

If you are able to clean the cage out-side, hopefully you will also have access to a water hose as this works great for rinsing after you are done. After you have cleaned and disinfected your chinchilla cage, you will need to let it dry. Just a few hours in the sun, or open air in a room in your home if cleaned inside, will dry the cage nicely as well as give it a good “airing-out”. This is the time to clean under the cage as well; when it is removed from it’s normal resting place.

Now that your chinchillas’ cage is cleaned, disinfected and dried, you can start putting it all back together. Putting about a half inch, first layer of cat litter down is very helpful in reducing odors but be sure to cover this with a softer bedding material of some kind. Although you will find several different types of bedding for small animals available at you local pet store, keep in mind that a feed store (if one is available near you) will have more natural types of bedding. “Natural”, as used here, means materials like untreated-wood shavings, small wood chips and different types of hay (several kinds of hay are also sold in pet stores).

Timothy hay is not only nutritious to eat but is great as a nesting material and can be found in pet as well as feed stores. As a low-energy, high-fiber, nutritious pet food, this hay is a natural, healthy food your small pet will love. Plus, the constant chewing needed to break these foods down helps wear down and clean your pet’s teeth. As a nesting material, Timothy hay will have your pet believing he’s foraging in the wild for materials (hide bits of carrot, apple….etc in it); it is sold with no preservatives, colorings, or additives. Hay can also provide entertainment, as your pet will burrow through and build nests out of it.

Alfalfa hay is sold in pet and feed stores in tightly compressed compact blocks and although nutritious, should be given as a snack rather than used as a “free-feeding” lining for the bottom of the cage as it is extremely rich in calories and contains a very high percentage of calcium. Amusing to watch, he’ll toss one around like a toy, stopping from time to time to nibble on it. A few other natural, edible and bedding “hays” are Orchard, Brome, and Bermuda grass and Oat hay.

Reattach the water bottle and food bowls. You will also want to provide your chinchilla with new chew toys: throw the old ones away. Like the bedding, you can find wooden chew-sticks as well as other types of things specially made for small pets to chew on and play with at a pet store; these “things” will provide a way to wear-down his “ever-growing” teeth and keep him occupied and from becoming lonely when left to himself. You can also buy a little “hut”, or hutch that you can put inside the cage for him to hide out or sleep in. There are also toys made specifically for small animals like chinchillas. These can be balls to roll around and chase or things to suspend from the top or sides of the cage.

One important note: ALL things, bowels, toys, chews, “huts”…..etc NEED to be made of some kind of metal or, ideally, ceramic. In the case of chews— wood, plain raw-hide or some other, edible, material is needed. Rubber (unless extremely hard and small pet approved) and especially plastic should NEVER be used for any small, “rodent-like” animal! These animals all but live to chew and will do so on just about anything they can get a hold of. If allowed to chew on plastic, rubber or even fabric they could choke, cut the inside of their mouth or end-up with a perforated stomach or intestine!

Now that you’ve gotten your chinchilla set-up and comfortable, you will most likely need, and want to, look at the area around his cage. In their rowdy play and just everyday living, chinchillas tend to push some of their cage-contents out through the side openings. Ths just comes with the “territory” of being a “small-pet-parent”. For this small clean-up project you’ll want to sweep or vacuum. A shop vacuum cleaner works well for the removal of hay, pellets and any other items that have been pushed out. It will also have the power to suck-up particles embedded deep into the carpet.

You and your furry little friend are now “good-to-go” for another week of fun and play.

Posted December 25, 2009 Comments(0)

A chinchillas’ cage should be “cleaned-up” daily and, more thoroughly cleaned and disinfected weekly. Food and water “dishes” need to be cleaned every day; one option would be to do this in the morning, before you put in his basic food (pellets) for the day. Water bottles and food dishes need cleansing with soapy hot water followed by a through rinsing.

Many types of water bottles and food dishes can be placed in the dishwasher, this will clean and disinfect these items very well, just be sure to read the manufacturers instructions regarding this; if you do not see this information, there is usually a phone number or Web-site provided

You may soak water bottles, tubes and nozzles in bleach water to disinfect them as well. Remember though BE SURE to thoroughly rinse them after soaking; any bleach residue can make your pet very ill or even cost him his life. Water bottlesand food dishes that are not cleaned regularly can cause serious health problems for your chinchilla. Bacteria can grow quickly in an unclean bowl or water bottle and in turn cause a bacterial infection to grow in this animal’s delicately balanced system.

When doing your weekly cleaning and disinfecting of your chinchillas’ cage you will need to wipe down the entire cage, paying special attention to the litter pan. One very affective as well as inexpensive cleaning agent is bleach. Use ¾ cup of the bleach for every gallon of water. Again, as mentioned above, be very careful to rinse everything you’ve washed using this bleach mixture. Other types of cleaners work equally well just be sure to follow the recommended dilution and rinse very, very well.

No matter the size of your cage, a five-gallon bucket with any diluted disinfectant should work well. If using bleach, though, use extra caution to avoid getting it on anything that you do not want ruined; bleach will not only discolor but can “eat through ” almost any kind of material or surface. If working inside, lay down a tarp, plastic sheeting or some kind of thick blanket that you don’t mind being marked-up or discolored.

If possible, take the cage outside to be cleaned as this will make the job all the easier and greatly reduce the chance of anything of value getting accidentally damaged. Unless you have a “chinchilla sitter” to watch over your pet as you clean his cage, you will need something to put him in until you are finished. Another, smaller, holding-cage would be ideal but it is not imperative that you have one. Whatever you use, just be sure that it’s safe, can comfortably hold him, something that you won’t mind possibly being chewed or used as a “bathroom”, or that he can get out of.

Posted December 23, 2009 Comments(0)

If you plan on breeding your chinchillas’, you may want to purchase a smaller cage for the babies to use temporarily after they are weaned. This comes into play mainly because females can become pregnant at a very, very young age. As this can happen before their little bodies are really fully matured enough to handle the added stress, the possibility of death while giving birth is greatly increased…. for the young mother as well as the kits. Also, you may very well find yourself with more chinchillas’ than you are prepared to care for in a very short span of time; their numbers increase exponentially almost before your eyes!

If you are indeed intentionally breeding them and you have come to the point of having all that you can properly care for, then you will need to obtain another, very similar in size and set-up (to reduce the stress of “moving”) cage. You will then need to separate the males from the females. After doing this be sure to place the cages as far apart within your home as possible as the males will become more aggressive toward each other if they become aware that the females have come into their reproductive responsive state again; try to place the cages in completely different parts of your home, put them as far away from each other as you can.

Another approach you can take in the matter of housing your chinchillas’ is to build one yourself. You can find plans, size measurements and systematic instructions on the Internet on how to build a cage that is safe and escape-proof for your pet(s). There are also many books written that can take you step by step through the process. One of the nicest things about doing this is that it will allow you to express your own tastes and creativity. And, who knows, your pet may even be able to sense the love, caring and individuality that you put into it for him!

You can also customize a cage you bought for your chinchilla. You can add or remove things, even build on or remove parts of it depending on you, and your little friend‘s tastes, needs and desires. Another way you can personalize it can be to fill it with fun things for him to play with and do. Place toys that hang from the sides and roof and/or build shelves for your chinchilla to rest on. A hammock for the chinchilla to play on or lounge in will add fun as well as uniqueness.

Place things like grass boxes, and tubes in the cage which can be used for play as well as sleeping. Rotate the play things you use, it will give him the feeling that there are always new, exciting things available for him. Chinchillas’ like to chew on many things so be sure to provide him with things that are safe for him to do so on. Avoid using plastic of any kind for anything that he has access to, chewing plastic can harm his mouth, throat and digestive tract. Things made of treated woods are also bad for chinchillas’, they can cause all of the harm mentioned above or, at the very least, make him sick to his stomach

There are many types of cages that would work nicely for your pet chinchilla(s). Having discussed several different cage options and features thus far, you should have pretty good insight about what kind of cage you will want as well as need for your soft, fun and furry new little family member(s). Good luck with your new little creature. Undoubtedly, he will enjoy the cage that you provide for him!

Posted December 21, 2009 Comments(0)