Pet Goddess

You can also get your chinchilla a hopper type feeder, again obtaining either metal or ceramic. This will discourage your pet from wasting his food by inadvertently, though sometimes purposely, pushing the food up and over the sides. If you see that you have a “food pusher”, while using a bowl, switching to a hopper is going to be your best bet. These are also very nice and convenient to use as you will not have to worry about refilling it daily; just be sure to check it every day.

As mention before, treats can be added to your chinchillas’ daily diet as well. If you find something your chinchilla really likes as a treat then give him a bit every day. Be sure to keep the treat amount to a minimum though as this could upset your little friends tummy as well as promote finicky eating behavior. Treats are a nice way to strengthen the bond between you and your pet and can also be used as a “positive reinforcement” tool for rewarding good behavior. Keep the treats to all natural, unsalted and dye free foods; added sugar, salt and colorings can upset little stomachs and/or cause diarrhea.

Your chinchilla will also need things to chew on daily. These “chew things” help keep his “ever-growing” teeth filed down. “Chewing-stones“ and all-natural chew sticks can be purchased from your local pet shop. You can scatter them around your chinchilla’s cage and/or fill a bowl with them for him to chew on when he wants to. It is best to actually place them in the cage rather than hand them out like a treat as he will be unable to let you know when he feels the need to chew. If not provided, your chinchilla’s teeth will continue to grow, unchecked. This can cause difficulty when trying to eat and his teeth can even grow so long as to cut into the gums. This can not only seriously interfere with eating but can be painful and even cause infection.

If you notice drooling, swelling around the mouth or a sudden lack of interest in food, he may not be chewing as much as he needs to be or you are not providing him with enough of or the types of “chew things” he prefers and he will need to be taken to your Veterinarian for his teeth to be trimmed down. This is an added cost that normally can easily be avoided. Having his teeth professionally trimmed in the place of offering enough, or the preferred things for him to chew on will not only cause your little friend undue stress but also deny him his innate need and desire to chew. Occasionally, you can be doing everything possible but his teeth either grow too fast for him to keep up with or he is one of the few, unusual chinchillas’ that just will not chew the needed amount.

Clean blocks of untreated wood or sterilized and stripped down tree limbs can be added to your pets cage, at no extra cost to you as these are things that can found in or out-side of your own home. A tree limb taken from outside needs to be stripped of the bark, cleaned and sterilized before being offered to your furry, little friend; “un-clean”, this can carry in and transfer to the cage and your pet, unwanted parasites and bugs. Needless to say, this is something that you do NOT want to introduce to his little world.

You can sterilize it by steaming it with a fabric steamer or placing it in the bathtub and running very hot water for several minuets. Another nice, natural piece of wood you could use is a piece of driftwood; be sure to clean and sterilize it as well. Driftwood can be found along river and lake beds as well as the ocean’s edge. One great idea is to obtain a limb or piece of driftwood that is big enough for your chinchilla to climb, play and sleep on as well as chew; it will be an attractive, as well natural addition. Just be sure that it is not so big as to overwhelm the inside of the cage.

Using common sense and the provided guide-lines will ensure that you and your chinchilla enjoy a long, fun-filled and loving life together.

Posted December 29, 2009 Comments(0)

Many of us assume we will outlive our pets, but what if something untimely happens to us?

Here is a great guide from the Humane Society on how to plan for your pet’s future:  Planning for your pet’s future

Posted November 21, 2009 Comments(0)

One of the most common problems affecting cats is an ear condition.  This is caused by mites that can reside in the ear canal.   

If you notice your cat’s ears are seeping a brownish discharge and they are scratching their ears constantly, they may be exhibiting symptoms of this condition.  To avoid this potentially medical problem, it is best to keep your cat indoors as these mites come from contact with other cats. While dogs can suffer from worm infestation, so can cats.  They can develop tapeworms from eating rodents, for example.  Tapeworms can be passed from cat to cat through the feces.  Thus, it is important to check their stool to look for signs they are infected with these parasites.  Visit a vet to determine course of treatment. Worms are particularly dangerous for kittens.  

Just as humans develop allergies, cats also suffer from this condition as well.  Fleas can cause a myriad of problems such as skin infections, tapeworms, and anemia.  

The best course of action to prevent cats from becoming infested with fleas is to consult your vet to determine what type of flea protection is best suited for their age and overall health. As with any pet, any change from their normal routine may signal that there is a problem.  Keeping a watchful eye on your cat’s behavior and habits can alert you when something doesn’t seem quite right.  

If your cat exhibits any sign that he or she is having a problem, it’s time to act.   

What signs should you look for?  A lack of eating or drinking is a clear sign that something is wrong. 

If you notice vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, inability to urinate, sluggishness, scratching of the ears, eating problems, or any drastic change in behavior, and or development of any lumps or sores under its coat, it’s time to visit the vet. 

No one knows your pet better than you, so keeping  a watchful eye on all of your cat’s activities will allow for immediate treatment before the condition becomes too serious.  No cat should go longer than 24 hours without eating. If it refuses, bring it to the vet. 

Your pet may look healthy, but it is relying on you to see the warning signs, and act fast to help it before it’s too late.  Make sure no matter if you have one cat, or several, you spend time with each one every day, and  note any change in habits.

Posted January 17, 2009 Comments(0)

Another condition that can affect a cat is kidney problems.  Usually associated with older cats, in cases where the kidney begins to malfunction, this can produce renal failure.  You may notice that your cat is drinking more water than usual, losing weight; and vomiting.   

While this is relatively common, you can prevent the onset of kidney failure by reducing the amount of protein and salt in their diet. There are many special diets now which can help you cope with these dietary restrictions. 

Always feed good quality cat food; the cheaper the food, the more likely they will have problems.  

Also make sure that you take your cat to the vet if you notice any significant changes in weight or amount of thirst, since this can also signal  the onset of feline diabetes.   

If you find that your cat is having a problem urinating, or the urine contains blood or mucus, this may be a sign that your cat has cystitis.  Make sure they have plenty of water, and take them to your vet.

Posted January 15, 2009 Comments(0)

Cats can have a variety of health problems as they mature.  Here are some common cat ailments and ways to avoid them. Cats have an innate ability to self-groom.  Observe any cat, from housecat to lion, and you will notice immediately after eating they lick their paws they gently “wash” their face.   

They groom themselves constantly and because they do, they swallow the hair that accumulates on their paws.  As a result, fur balls are swallowed and this leads to vomiting and gastric distress. In order to avoid this from occurring, brushing the cat’s coat frequently is recommended, as well as keeping the cat hydrated, and giving them a hairball treatment as needed to help the fur pass more easily through their digestive tract. 

Hydration also plays a vital role in bladder infections which cats often get, particularly in male cats because they have a much narrower urinary passage compared with a female. It is also advised to limit dry food intake by not keeping a plate of food available, but choosing the time in which they are to be fed. Wet food will help a male pass more urine.

Posted January 13, 2009 Comments(0)

To help have a happy healthy pet the whole family will enjoy, here are some litterbox dos and don’ts.

DOs
# Use a clumping litter (check with your vet for kittens younger than 8 weeks). They might eat it and get a gastrointestinal blockage which could prove fatal.

Also beware of the cedar sawdust litter—my cat would eat it as well because it smelled so nice.

# Scoop the litter box daily for feces and wet or clumped litter.

# Make sure the litter is deep enough, usually 3 to 4 inches. Cats like to dig.

# Make sure there are ample litter boxes in the house, especially if you are a multipet household. One box per cat and floor is commonly recommended.

# Place litter boxes in a quiet place that’s convenient for you too.

# Use a rug or litter mat to catch loose litter so it does not track all over the house.

# Consult your vet if your cat stops using the litter box; they may have a urinary tract issue.

DON’T

# Put the litter box in an open area where there is a lot of activity.

# Change the location of the litter box unless you have to

# Forget to change out your entire litter box contents once a week, or more often if you have a multicat household.

# Ignore changes in your cat’s litter box behavior. Such changes could be behavioral, or could be a sign of a urinary tract infection, or other gastrointestinal issue. If a cat stops eating or drinking for more than a day it can be a sign of something serious.

Posted October 15, 2008 Comments(0)

Help your new cat adapt to her litter box as soon as possible and you’ll both be happier.

* A litter pan – either a hooded box or a more open one. Check your local pet store for a variety of options.
* An autoscoop pan if you plan to be away for a day or two at a time. We do not recommend leaving a cat alone for longer than that unless you have someone look in on them. But at least they won’t have to worry too much about tending the litter.
* A rug or tray of some sort to help keep the outside litter area neat.
* A slotted utensil like a scooper that you can use to easily scoop the feces and wet litter out of the tray.
* A clumping litter so that even liquid waste can be easily scooped and removed, so your house will not smell like cat urine. But never use one with kittens, as they might lick it off their feet or eat it and get a blockage.
* A stash of plastic bags for quick and handy waste disposal.
* Plastic litter pan liners can be a convenient way to change out the entire box of litter quickly and easily when the time comes.

Put the cat in the tray and let it sniff and observe, and pad around in it. If you can, take one of its front paws and make a digging motion.

If you catch it mid-pee or poo outside the box, either put the pet in the box to finish, or put the poo in the box so it will get the idea.

Posted October 11, 2008 Comments(0)

Discovering puddles and little cat “presents” around the house, especially when you get home from a long day at the office, can be an irritating issue.

If your cat is ignoring his or her litter box on occasion, or totally, it could be a health issue, a urinary tract infection in particular.

Or, it could be a behavioral issue. She could be misbehaving for a number of reasons, including a litter box that is unclean for his or her high standards, in the wrong place, or just plain not attractive for a number of reasons.

If your cat was an outdoor cat, it could just be reverting back to its old habits of going at will. Or, perhaps it can’t contain itself. It could also be angry that you are not giving it enough time or attention. There is nothing worse than a pet who pees wrathfully, as we say in my house. (We had a dog who would look at you, throw her ears back, and pee on purpose the couple of rare times she would ever get annoyed by something).

So, if you have ruled out a health issue, and a behavioral one, here are some tips to get your pet back on track using its litter box:

* Place the litter box in a quiet, private location that’s easily accessible. You might want to get one of the ones that looks like a little hut.
* Try not to move the box around.
* Use a clumping litter so that waste can be easily scooped and removed.
* Keep it simple and scoop the litter daily. You might want to get an automated scoop litter box, but keep in mind that you will need to introduce it gradually so as not to scare your pet with this new mechanized box.
* Make sure there’s an adequate number of cat boxes available, and consider more than one box if you have more than one cat.
* Make sure your box is big enough for her to circle around in comfortably.
* Check the level of cat litter; your cat likely prefers a good 3-4 inches of litter for a good dig (my cat used to ‘dig to China’, dig the whole litter box for about 10 minutes, usually in the middle of the night!)
* If you’re using a scented litter, try switching to an unscented variety, or vice versa. I have to say, I definitely prefer the unscented!

Posted October 5, 2008 Comments(0)

Spraying is not a litter box problem, but rather, is a behavior to mark territory, particularly with male cats.

It is a communication system for a cat, appropriate when they are in the wild, but not so appropriate when they are living indoors and doing it on all your walls and furniture.

To prevent spraying, you may wish to consult your vet about neutering your (male) cat, and checking for possible medical causes.

You can try to get at the root cause by paying attention to the reasons he or she is spraying (yes, sometimes even females have this nasty habit).

There are a number of reasons why your normally placid puss might pee inappropriately, and even spray.

*  New pet, new family member or visitors
* Problems with another pet or household member
* Cats visiting in the yard
* Moving house, or remodeling

If any of these things are the case, they problem should resolve itself once the event is over.

Be sure to not punish your cat, even if caught in the act of spraying, as this will likely lead to more yucky spraying.

Remember that your pet is territorial, so try to keep its environment stable and secure.

If you still have a spraying cat, try some of the new generation of enzyme cleaners for urine, which basically break down the proteins and also the smell.

There is also a new Febreeze line of pet odor eliminators for those times when you need a bit more help with your household cleaning and fragrance, especially if your pet is spraying against the legs of your upholstered furniture.

There is also pet repellent, good for protecting your general area around the house from unwanted animals in your yard, but it can also affect your own cat. So be vigilant, and reassure your cat that he is number one in your house.

Posted September 25, 2008 Comments(0)

YOUR SHOPPING LIST OF CAT ESSENTIALS

A CAT CARRIER

To bring your pet home, you will be given a cardboard box, but you will need a proper cat carrier for your pet. There are several comfortable and sturdy styles at your local pet store. Some are made with cloth, padded material, or high-impact plastic — all suitable for various travel needs.

We recommend the plastic with the wire door, mainly covered, but with airholes in the side on the upper part of the carrier. It will make the cat less skittish to not have to look out, or have others looking in.  It is also sturdy and durable and can be used for a variety of purposes.

We do not recommend softsides, as kitty claws can be sharp and they can easily rip right through the bag.

Posted September 23, 2008 Comments(0)