Pet Goddess

So, you’ve decided to breed your chinchillas’ or, perhaps you have become a chinchilla “parent” through no hand of your own; a male and female, housed together have produced these tiny, delightful little creatures, called Kits, on their own. Or, yet still, maybe you have decided to start out by obtaining a weaned kit from a breeder. In any event, there are a few basics that you will need to know.

In the following we will discuss the few special needs and characteristics of chinchilla kits: 

Pet chinchillas are normally born even-tempered. This is because the parents were good-natured and you or the breeder took two chinchillas with good temperament and allowed for them to breed. It is best to try and not disturb a chinchilla or her newly-born babies for a week or so after the birth; doing so could greatly distress the mother. You should give the new, little family at least a week of relatively “undisturbed” time; this is their bonding time, an important factor in promoting good, even temperment.

Although “hand-training” a kit is neither difficult or extensive, it does take some time and patience. Also, like most any youngster, the chinchilla kits will follow the lead of their parents. Due to this nurture and nature, they will become more easily handled and make wonderful companions.

The mother will carry the babies for about 111 days before giving birth. Being nocturnal animals, mothers will often go into “labor” during the night, giving birth in the early morning hours. A mother will deliver anywhere from one to about five kits; the average number being three.

The babies are born with all their hair, a full set of teeth and eyes wide open. As all development, with the exception of growth, occurs within the womb, they look just like a miniature version of the parents, weighing about one to three ounces.

Although they will be kept very close by the mother for the next several days, it’s not long before these inquisitive little creatures will start trying to exploring their surroundings, often much to the exasperation of their mother who will pull in one only to have it wander out again as she goes for the next.

Chinchilla babies need to stay with their mother for six to seven weeks until they are weaned. During this time the mother’s milk will be all that they need to keep them strong, healthy and growing.  After the kits have had time to adjust to their new surroundings and bond with their mother, you will want to start handling them. This will get them used to being touched and picked-up by not only you, but humans in general.

At first take them out together or with a parent as this will give them a sense of security. Then you can gradually, a bit more each day, start taking them out individually and for longer periods of time. The more time they spend out with you, the more they will become used to human contact. If you plan to sell the babies, practicing these slow and gentle “outings” on a regular basis will make for a friendly, well balanced and therefore more valuable pet.

A happy, well adjusted pet is all that more likely to have a happy and loving home.

Posted December 31, 2009 Comments(0)

You can also get your chinchilla a hopper type feeder, again obtaining either metal or ceramic. This will discourage your pet from wasting his food by inadvertently, though sometimes purposely, pushing the food up and over the sides. If you see that you have a “food pusher”, while using a bowl, switching to a hopper is going to be your best bet. These are also very nice and convenient to use as you will not have to worry about refilling it daily; just be sure to check it every day.

As mention before, treats can be added to your chinchillas’ daily diet as well. If you find something your chinchilla really likes as a treat then give him a bit every day. Be sure to keep the treat amount to a minimum though as this could upset your little friends tummy as well as promote finicky eating behavior. Treats are a nice way to strengthen the bond between you and your pet and can also be used as a “positive reinforcement” tool for rewarding good behavior. Keep the treats to all natural, unsalted and dye free foods; added sugar, salt and colorings can upset little stomachs and/or cause diarrhea.

Your chinchilla will also need things to chew on daily. These “chew things” help keep his “ever-growing” teeth filed down. “Chewing-stones“ and all-natural chew sticks can be purchased from your local pet shop. You can scatter them around your chinchilla’s cage and/or fill a bowl with them for him to chew on when he wants to. It is best to actually place them in the cage rather than hand them out like a treat as he will be unable to let you know when he feels the need to chew. If not provided, your chinchilla’s teeth will continue to grow, unchecked. This can cause difficulty when trying to eat and his teeth can even grow so long as to cut into the gums. This can not only seriously interfere with eating but can be painful and even cause infection.

If you notice drooling, swelling around the mouth or a sudden lack of interest in food, he may not be chewing as much as he needs to be or you are not providing him with enough of or the types of “chew things” he prefers and he will need to be taken to your Veterinarian for his teeth to be trimmed down. This is an added cost that normally can easily be avoided. Having his teeth professionally trimmed in the place of offering enough, or the preferred things for him to chew on will not only cause your little friend undue stress but also deny him his innate need and desire to chew. Occasionally, you can be doing everything possible but his teeth either grow too fast for him to keep up with or he is one of the few, unusual chinchillas’ that just will not chew the needed amount.

Clean blocks of untreated wood or sterilized and stripped down tree limbs can be added to your pets cage, at no extra cost to you as these are things that can found in or out-side of your own home. A tree limb taken from outside needs to be stripped of the bark, cleaned and sterilized before being offered to your furry, little friend; “un-clean”, this can carry in and transfer to the cage and your pet, unwanted parasites and bugs. Needless to say, this is something that you do NOT want to introduce to his little world.

You can sterilize it by steaming it with a fabric steamer or placing it in the bathtub and running very hot water for several minuets. Another nice, natural piece of wood you could use is a piece of driftwood; be sure to clean and sterilize it as well. Driftwood can be found along river and lake beds as well as the ocean’s edge. One great idea is to obtain a limb or piece of driftwood that is big enough for your chinchilla to climb, play and sleep on as well as chew; it will be an attractive, as well natural addition. Just be sure that it is not so big as to overwhelm the inside of the cage.

Using common sense and the provided guide-lines will ensure that you and your chinchilla enjoy a long, fun-filled and loving life together.

Posted December 29, 2009 Comments(0)

Chinchillas need to be fed fresh food on a daily basis. There are many types of chinchilla food or pellets available on the market today, providing you with several good quality brands for your pet for you to choose from. This will provide your chinchilla with everything he needs to maintain a healthy diet. In order to supplement his diet, give him fresh fruits, vegetables and nuts. Foods like carrots, apples, lettuce and different types of unsalted nuts will round out his diet as well as keep his tummy happy.

Do not give him any kind of citrus fruit though, these fruits are much too acidic for him and can make him very sick. Their tastes in food can be as varied as ours so you may need to try a few different types of food before you hit on the ones that he likes best; just be sure that his intake is balanced. You can hide bits of his favorite treats in the bedding of his cage. This will provide amusement for you and him as his innate foraging behavior will have him digging and “snow-plowing” his nose through the bedding to “forage” for the hidden bits of food.

Chinchilla food comes in two different major forms; one is a loose mixture of things chinchillas like to eat, like nuts, seeds, and fruits. These are dehydrated and come in a bagged mixture. This is a good food for your chinchillas’ daily, main staple however, he may pick out the things he prefers and leave several remaining things in the bowl, which can be wasteful as well as keep your pet from acquiring everything he needs for a balanced diet. If he is only “passing over” one or two things, you can supplement these with something else he does like. But, if he is not eating the majority of it you will need to try another basic food source.

This takes us to the second major type of basic food. Chinchilla food also comes in the form of a pellet. Though rabbit pellets are not a suitable long-term substitute, they are much the same as chinchilla pellets. These pellets are made by grinding up the different types of ingredients in the above mention bagged mixture then mixing a sweetened, sticky substance with he ground formula. This mixture is then pressed out through a die, forming the pellets. These pellets are completely formulated for your chinchilla and have everything he needs to stay healthy; another sure way to know your chinchilla is getting what he needs to maintain a healthy and balanced diet.

You will need to get a bowl for your chinchilla that he is unable to chew up to put his food in; remember DO NOT use plastic, of any kind. Even very hard plastic can be chewed up by a chinchilla as their teeth are adapted to gnawing through hard woods and, harder still, nut casings. Small pet bowls of all shapes and sizes can be found at your local pet store. Some stores may tell you that a certain type of hard plastic bowl will be “un-chewable“ but it is safest to place your bet with your chinchilla’s jaw strength and determination.

A bottom-weighted metal or ceramic bowl will work best as the weight will keep your pet from tipping the bowl over and spilling the food. Another amusing thing to watch: chinchillas’ will often, no matter how small the bowl is in comparison to his own size, “perch” on the edge of the bowl as he eats. It appears that they may be trying to dominate the food source as they will often try to “run off” another chinchilla who approaches the bowl when he is thus “perched”. If you do indeed have more than one, which is recommended, (two females is best unless you plan to breed them) and it looks as if you have a bit of a “bully” in the cage then using two bowls, placed at opposite ends of the cage should solve the issue.

Posted December 27, 2009 Comments(0)

While cleaning and disinfecting the cage a good scrub brush or pad would be very helpful especially when cleaning the bottom. Scrub top, bottom and all sides of it. Start with the top first, this will keep anything that is on the top of the cage from falling down onto the bottom while you are cleaning that part of it; it will save you the time and trouble of having to go back over parts that you’ve already cleaned. Another thing that would be of help is a good, thick pair of rubber, kitchen gloves. The gloves will protect your hands from the harsh cleanser as well as keep them clean during the clean-up.

If you are able to clean the cage out-side, hopefully you will also have access to a water hose as this works great for rinsing after you are done. After you have cleaned and disinfected your chinchilla cage, you will need to let it dry. Just a few hours in the sun, or open air in a room in your home if cleaned inside, will dry the cage nicely as well as give it a good “airing-out”. This is the time to clean under the cage as well; when it is removed from it’s normal resting place.

Now that your chinchillas’ cage is cleaned, disinfected and dried, you can start putting it all back together. Putting about a half inch, first layer of cat litter down is very helpful in reducing odors but be sure to cover this with a softer bedding material of some kind. Although you will find several different types of bedding for small animals available at you local pet store, keep in mind that a feed store (if one is available near you) will have more natural types of bedding. “Natural”, as used here, means materials like untreated-wood shavings, small wood chips and different types of hay (several kinds of hay are also sold in pet stores).

Timothy hay is not only nutritious to eat but is great as a nesting material and can be found in pet as well as feed stores. As a low-energy, high-fiber, nutritious pet food, this hay is a natural, healthy food your small pet will love. Plus, the constant chewing needed to break these foods down helps wear down and clean your pet’s teeth. As a nesting material, Timothy hay will have your pet believing he’s foraging in the wild for materials (hide bits of carrot, apple….etc in it); it is sold with no preservatives, colorings, or additives. Hay can also provide entertainment, as your pet will burrow through and build nests out of it.

Alfalfa hay is sold in pet and feed stores in tightly compressed compact blocks and although nutritious, should be given as a snack rather than used as a “free-feeding” lining for the bottom of the cage as it is extremely rich in calories and contains a very high percentage of calcium. Amusing to watch, he’ll toss one around like a toy, stopping from time to time to nibble on it. A few other natural, edible and bedding “hays” are Orchard, Brome, and Bermuda grass and Oat hay.

Reattach the water bottle and food bowls. You will also want to provide your chinchilla with new chew toys: throw the old ones away. Like the bedding, you can find wooden chew-sticks as well as other types of things specially made for small pets to chew on and play with at a pet store; these “things” will provide a way to wear-down his “ever-growing” teeth and keep him occupied and from becoming lonely when left to himself. You can also buy a little “hut”, or hutch that you can put inside the cage for him to hide out or sleep in. There are also toys made specifically for small animals like chinchillas. These can be balls to roll around and chase or things to suspend from the top or sides of the cage.

One important note: ALL things, bowels, toys, chews, “huts”…..etc NEED to be made of some kind of metal or, ideally, ceramic. In the case of chews— wood, plain raw-hide or some other, edible, material is needed. Rubber (unless extremely hard and small pet approved) and especially plastic should NEVER be used for any small, “rodent-like” animal! These animals all but live to chew and will do so on just about anything they can get a hold of. If allowed to chew on plastic, rubber or even fabric they could choke, cut the inside of their mouth or end-up with a perforated stomach or intestine!

Now that you’ve gotten your chinchilla set-up and comfortable, you will most likely need, and want to, look at the area around his cage. In their rowdy play and just everyday living, chinchillas tend to push some of their cage-contents out through the side openings. Ths just comes with the “territory” of being a “small-pet-parent”. For this small clean-up project you’ll want to sweep or vacuum. A shop vacuum cleaner works well for the removal of hay, pellets and any other items that have been pushed out. It will also have the power to suck-up particles embedded deep into the carpet.

You and your furry little friend are now “good-to-go” for another week of fun and play.

Posted December 25, 2009 Comments(0)

A chinchillas’ cage should be “cleaned-up” daily and, more thoroughly cleaned and disinfected weekly. Food and water “dishes” need to be cleaned every day; one option would be to do this in the morning, before you put in his basic food (pellets) for the day. Water bottles and food dishes need cleansing with soapy hot water followed by a through rinsing.

Many types of water bottles and food dishes can be placed in the dishwasher, this will clean and disinfect these items very well, just be sure to read the manufacturers instructions regarding this; if you do not see this information, there is usually a phone number or Web-site provided

You may soak water bottles, tubes and nozzles in bleach water to disinfect them as well. Remember though BE SURE to thoroughly rinse them after soaking; any bleach residue can make your pet very ill or even cost him his life. Water bottlesand food dishes that are not cleaned regularly can cause serious health problems for your chinchilla. Bacteria can grow quickly in an unclean bowl or water bottle and in turn cause a bacterial infection to grow in this animal’s delicately balanced system.

When doing your weekly cleaning and disinfecting of your chinchillas’ cage you will need to wipe down the entire cage, paying special attention to the litter pan. One very affective as well as inexpensive cleaning agent is bleach. Use ¾ cup of the bleach for every gallon of water. Again, as mentioned above, be very careful to rinse everything you’ve washed using this bleach mixture. Other types of cleaners work equally well just be sure to follow the recommended dilution and rinse very, very well.

No matter the size of your cage, a five-gallon bucket with any diluted disinfectant should work well. If using bleach, though, use extra caution to avoid getting it on anything that you do not want ruined; bleach will not only discolor but can “eat through ” almost any kind of material or surface. If working inside, lay down a tarp, plastic sheeting or some kind of thick blanket that you don’t mind being marked-up or discolored.

If possible, take the cage outside to be cleaned as this will make the job all the easier and greatly reduce the chance of anything of value getting accidentally damaged. Unless you have a “chinchilla sitter” to watch over your pet as you clean his cage, you will need something to put him in until you are finished. Another, smaller, holding-cage would be ideal but it is not imperative that you have one. Whatever you use, just be sure that it’s safe, can comfortably hold him, something that you won’t mind possibly being chewed or used as a “bathroom”, or that he can get out of.

Posted December 23, 2009 Comments(0)

If you plan on breeding your chinchillas’, you may want to purchase a smaller cage for the babies to use temporarily after they are weaned. This comes into play mainly because females can become pregnant at a very, very young age. As this can happen before their little bodies are really fully matured enough to handle the added stress, the possibility of death while giving birth is greatly increased…. for the young mother as well as the kits. Also, you may very well find yourself with more chinchillas’ than you are prepared to care for in a very short span of time; their numbers increase exponentially almost before your eyes!

If you are indeed intentionally breeding them and you have come to the point of having all that you can properly care for, then you will need to obtain another, very similar in size and set-up (to reduce the stress of “moving”) cage. You will then need to separate the males from the females. After doing this be sure to place the cages as far apart within your home as possible as the males will become more aggressive toward each other if they become aware that the females have come into their reproductive responsive state again; try to place the cages in completely different parts of your home, put them as far away from each other as you can.

Another approach you can take in the matter of housing your chinchillas’ is to build one yourself. You can find plans, size measurements and systematic instructions on the Internet on how to build a cage that is safe and escape-proof for your pet(s). There are also many books written that can take you step by step through the process. One of the nicest things about doing this is that it will allow you to express your own tastes and creativity. And, who knows, your pet may even be able to sense the love, caring and individuality that you put into it for him!

You can also customize a cage you bought for your chinchilla. You can add or remove things, even build on or remove parts of it depending on you, and your little friend‘s tastes, needs and desires. Another way you can personalize it can be to fill it with fun things for him to play with and do. Place toys that hang from the sides and roof and/or build shelves for your chinchilla to rest on. A hammock for the chinchilla to play on or lounge in will add fun as well as uniqueness.

Place things like grass boxes, and tubes in the cage which can be used for play as well as sleeping. Rotate the play things you use, it will give him the feeling that there are always new, exciting things available for him. Chinchillas’ like to chew on many things so be sure to provide him with things that are safe for him to do so on. Avoid using plastic of any kind for anything that he has access to, chewing plastic can harm his mouth, throat and digestive tract. Things made of treated woods are also bad for chinchillas’, they can cause all of the harm mentioned above or, at the very least, make him sick to his stomach

There are many types of cages that would work nicely for your pet chinchilla(s). Having discussed several different cage options and features thus far, you should have pretty good insight about what kind of cage you will want as well as need for your soft, fun and furry new little family member(s). Good luck with your new little creature. Undoubtedly, he will enjoy the cage that you provide for him!

Posted December 21, 2009 Comments(0)

So, you‘ve now chosen to buy a chinchilla and to experience the delightful, amusing uniqueness they will bring to your home as pets. Now, you are going to need to make a home within your home for them; a cage, for them and their things. There are many different types, shapes and sizes of small pet cages available on the Internet as well as at your local pet store.

Any cage, from around 30″ to 48″ inches in height and length, should be big enough and provide your pet with plenty of living, as well as playing, room. Of course the difference in size will need to correlate with the number of these furry little creatures that you have chosen to share your home and life with.

While multiple levels are a plus, a solid floor is a must; wire mesh is much too hazardous for their delicate, mouse-like, little feet. It is also wise to choose a cage with bars rather than mesh-like sides because, as you will quickly, and to your amusement, find out, a happy, healthy chinchilla will frequently run all around the cage very fast, banking off the sides in play. And, again, mesh can cause a delicate foot to become caught and, most especially if at this rowdy play, cause serious injury!

You can also add some ramps for your chinchilla to climb on, or even some tree limbs. Just be sure that anything brought in from the outside, like a tree limb, is “cleaned” before putting it into the cage; you do not want to take the chance of introducing bugs or parasites to the home of an animal who’s system is as delicate as a chinchillas’ can be.

Stripping any rough bark off and steaming the limb will greatly reduce this risk. Another “limb-like” option is a large piece of well worn drift wood; again, being sure to sterilize it first. (lovely, naturally-formed drift wood can be found along river banks and large lakes as well as on the shore of a beach). Also, some pet stores carry the larger, synthetic, pieces like this. These additions are not only fun and functional for your pet but also add a natural beauty to the cage, easily creating a unique “coversation piece”.

Many cages come with a removable tray that slides out of the bottom for easy cleaning. A very effective as well as inexpensive source you can use for easy cleaning, disinfecting and deodorizing the cage can be created by mixing a small amount of bleach with hot water; ¾ cup of bleach per gallon of water works very well. DO NOT use the bleach full strength. It is highly corrosive and will damage any plastic it’s used on. It can also damage the surface of metal as well.

This mixture can be used for the rest of the cage too. Be sure, though, to rinse very, very thoroughly; any residue or even strong smell of the bleach can, at the very least, cause your pet to become ill. If possible, taking the entire cage, and the other items used within it, outside to clean, especially when you are using bleach, is a good idea. It will more than allow for proper ventilation for you and you can use a garden hose for a very last and long final rinse for your chinchillas benefit. Use only hot soapy water for all the feeding and drinking containers.

Posted December 19, 2009 Comments(0)

Also, make note, if they can reach something through the cage, chinchillas are notorious for pulling things in and chewing them. Be sure that anything of value is completely out of their reach as these “things” could not only be damaged, but could also cause choking or an intestinal blockage.

When bringing a chinchilla home do not just put him in the cage and leave him there. It is essential that you take your chinchilla out of the cage regularly and spend time with him.

You will want to ensure that a bond forms between you and your new pet. This bonding is a positive thing for the chinchilla as they like to socialize with people as well as each other.

When housing your chinchilla, make sure to provide it with a cage that is big enough for your little guy, or girl, to move and jump around in. Also, make sure the cage has a solid bottom and not a wire mesh. Your chinchilla could get his feet caught in between the wiring of a mesh-cage floor, causing severe injury.

Now that you know some facts about chinchillas, bringing one, or two, home as a pet(s) should seem a bit easier. You will learn much more about these cuddly little creatures as time goes by.

Posted December 17, 2009 Comments(0)

You can use a small box or even a low-sided can to put the “dust bath” in, as long as it allows ample room for a chinchilla to roll in it. Finely ground bone meal is one safe and inexpensive material you can use. These “dust baths” absorb the oil from your chinchillas fur leaving it very soft and clean.

The “dust bath” is an inherited characteristic unique to chinchillas and is a very amusing thing to watch. Using a low-sided can makes observing this all the more fun as you watch him roll “somersault-like” over and over until he has finished his “bath”.

You will need to know what to feed your new, furry little family member. Chinchillas require a high fiber diet; make sure to give them plenty of fresh hay every day. Timothy hay is best as alfalfa hay contains too much calcium in it. Knowing what to feed your chinchilla will have a large affect on the overall health of your pet.

Many chinchillas will take almost any kind of food from your hand so be sure that all who will be in contact with your pet know which things are good for them and which are not; candy, for instance, can make one very sick to his stomach as well as disrupt healthy eating habits.

Upon bringing your chinchilla home, make sure to “chinchilla-proof” it. They are very curious animals and may nibble or chew on things they are able to get to. You should make sure he can’t access things like electric cords or potentially poisonous house plants. Search the room thoroughly before you place your chinchilla down to play freely.

Posted December 15, 2009 Comments(0)

Chinchillas do make wonderful pets. Before you go out and buy one though, be sure you do a little research on these beautiful little creatures. Check up on things like how to care for them, their nutritional needs and all of the items you will need to make a home for them.

The following should of great help in getting you started:

When choosing a chinchilla be sure to look for possible signs of illness, such as hair loss, lethargy or any kind of eye or nose discharge. These things could mean something is seriously wrong with the animal. Some hair loss or signs of any lethargy though, may simply be due to stress.

This stress could be the result of lack of handling or attention, nothing that a good home, love, patience, proper care and nutrition can’t very well correct. Also, if you already have a chinchilla at home, be careful not to choose a cage mate that seems to be ill, as it could be contagious and may sicken your other pet(s).

Chinchillas need a large roomy cage and it is best to have a cage set up before you bring them home. They also like toys to play with, and to chew on. You will need to have a few other certain items present before you bring them home. such as a nest box to lie in, a water bottle to drink out of and the materials needed for them to take a “dust bath” in.

You should never give your chinchilla a bath in water, this could cause a fungus to grow on the skin. Chinchillas require and love to take a “dust bath,” you can purchase the needed products at your local feed or pet store.

Posted December 13, 2009 Comments(0)