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2007 December | pet-goddess.com

Archive for December, 2007

Dog Training Made Fun Part 2

(continued from Part 1)

The Fun Begins
So, now that I have got the serious considerations or puppy training out of the way, I want to put your puppy training in a more entertaining light. The time you train your puppy, feed it, walk it, is a wonderful bonding experience which you will remember for the rest of your life. You will be able to have all sorts of fun with your puppy, so long as you stay consistent.

You will develop a wonderful bond and with your pet, and it will come to trust you. Most puppies are very eager to please and quick to learn, and are energetic, lively and fun. So long as you keep your ‘play dates’ and training sessions structured and safe, they will learn quickly and enjoy learning what you have to teach. They will definitely love being praised, petted, and given rewards.

With dog training, making everything a structured lesson to show your puppy his new world (like the Puppy Rule of 12) helps the to gain confidence and self-esteem. It will also stop him from being bored.

One reason for so many different kinds of behavior problems is because the puppy is bored or lonely, with nobody to play with. It might feel it is not getting enough attention, or having separation anxiety, which is why spending time with your dog is so very important. If they are experiencing any of the above feelings, they can destroy property, go to the toilet in inappropriate places, bark, or show signs of serious distress and upset.

Let your dog know how very proud of him you are any time that he does something worth rewarding, even if it is just something small. The more you praise them, the more likely they will be to continue their good behavior for you.

Have fun with your puppy every day. Try throwing a ball for him to fetch, but make sure that he does give it back, to show that you are the alpha in control. Each time that he brings it back to you and lets you have it, really praise him, or reward him with a treat. I usually keep dry food in a small tin that rattles, and so if he hears the rattling noise he will try to win a treat. This training aid can help you quickly turn your lessons into an enjoyable and non-stressful game for you to play with one another, and is really a fun way for you and your dog to pass some time and help burn up some of his energy to help him sleeps soundly throughout the night.

You and your dog will be much happier thanks to you giving him the attention that he requires, and applying dog training techniques on him every single chance that you do get with him. Keep it fun, but be firm, and he will be even more eager to learn and please. Then he will grow into a well-adjusted, confident dog that everyone will enjoy spending time with.

Dog Training Made Fun

All the material you may have read by now about puppy training may make it sound like an almost impossible feat. But it really does not have to be a difficult task if you practice common sense and patience. In fact, it can be very enjoyable, if it is done properly and consistently.

It is very important for any new puppy or dog owner to understand that dog training is not going to happen overnight. It will happen it by bit, day by day, if you are consistent.

Patience is an absolute must. With the right amount of knowledge and a really good attitude, your dog could eventually be the best trained dog in your neighborhood, one that people will love to see and spend time with.

Everyone that owns a dog really does want their dog to be a well behaved one they can be proud of. It is also for his safety and that of the general public and other dogs that your puppy be trained to listen and obey your commands.

Speaking from personal experience, there is nothing more heartbreaking that seeing an injured or even dead puppy, killed in the street, because the dog was so badly trained that it acted uncontrollably even on a leash. It yanked away from its owner and out in front of a car going past, and died before it could get to a vet.

That happened to one of my neighbors’ dogs. It was a black labrador puppy they had got from a shelter and had not trained carefully. They also used way too long a leash, one of those ten foot ones. (I would also avoid the thin, roll-up washing line type of leashes as well, especially with large dogs). Your dog should always be trained to walk to heel, not only close to you, but also a bit BEHIND you.

This is essential, because dogs are pack animals, and they need to have respect for the head of the pack, the ‘alpha’ dog. If the are allowed to walk ahead, pull or tug, they are more likely to think THEY are in charge, and will not only not obey your commands, they might even turn aggressive.

The same is true of allowing them to sleep on your bed. It may seem as if you are letting the puppy become a valued member of the family, but a crate is far better for a young dog, giving him his own ‘den’ of safety and making sure that you have a place to put him when you go out for short periods so you won’t have to worry about him getting up to mischief when you are away.

If you show any uncertainty or fail to take charge in what your puppy or young dog feels to be a challenging situation, such as another dog coming by, they will try to assume the alpha role and protect YOU. That is where inappropriate barking, growling or tugging can not only make people think your dog is dangerous, but put it in a dangerous situation if the other dog he is confronting is equally out of control.

(see Dog Training Made Fun Part 2 also)

Microchipping Your Puppy

Rover is a common name for a puppy, with very good reason-they often wander away from their owners. We’ve noticed this is particularly true of male puppies.

Therefore, you might want to consider enrolling in a plan like Home Again, to microchip your dog with a small identification chip between its shoulder blades under the skin.

It is a safe, painless, quick and inexpensive procedure you can do at the vet. Then the only other going cost is the yearly membership, which is currently about $20 per year.

Your contact information is stored on the microchip, and can be reprogrammed and be read with the vet’s special reader. In case the puppy is ever lost or stolen, it can be returned to you easily.

We have had some friends actually have their pedigree puppies stolen right out of their back yard in broad daylight. They were eventually returned thanks to having been microchipped. A great number of shelter animals are now being microchipped as well in order to ensure their safe return to their loved ones, and to encourage responsible dog ownership.

Why would any one steal a puppy, you might ask. Well, some people just want a dog in that breed, and would be willing to pay anything for it, papers or no papers. Many other puppy thieves will issue false pedigree papers. Still more unscrupulous people will have them grow up to be breeders in puppy mills. Click here for more information on puppy mills.

Pedigree puppies are BIG business—be vigilant about your puppy’s care and safety, and make sure it does not fall prey to puppynappers. Microchip your puppy so you can have a long and happy and stress-free life together.

Also see the article on puppy mills at this site.

The Puppy’s Rule of 12

The Puppy’s Rule of 12

This comes from a variety of sources. I received by copy from a dog training for seeing eye dogs group.

By the time a puppy is 12 weeks old*, he/she should have:

* Experienced 12 different surfaces: wood, carpet, tile, cement, linoleum, grass, wet grass, dirt, mud, puddles, deep pea gravel, grates, uneven surfaces, on a table, on a chair, etc.
* Played with 12 different objects: fuzzy toys, big and small balls, hard toys, funny sounding toys, wooden items, paper or cardboard items, milk jugs, metal items, car keys, etc.
* Experienced 12 different locations: front yard (daily), other people’s homes, school yard, lake, pond, river, boat, basement, elevator, car, moving car, garage, laundry room, kennel, veterinarian hospital (just to say hi and visit, lots of cookies, no vaccinations), grooming salon (just to say hi), etc.
* Met and played with 12 new people (outside of family): include children, adults (mostly men), elderly adults, people in wheelchairs, walkers, people with canes, crutches, hats, sunglasses, etc.
* Heard to 12 different noises (ALWAYS keep positive and watch puppy’s comfort level-we don’t want the puppy to be scared): garage door opening, doorbell, children playing, babies screaming, big trucks, loud motorcycles, skateboards, washing machine, shopping carts, power boat, clapping, loud singing, pan dropping, horses neighing, vacuums, lawnmowers, birthday party, etc.
* Been exposed to 12 fast moving objects (don’t allow puppy to chase): skateboards, roller-skates, bicycles, motorcycles, cars, people running, cats running, scooters, vacuums, children running, children playing soccer, squirrels, cats, horses, cows, etc.
* Experienced 12 different challenges: climb on, in, off, and around a box; go through a cardboard tunnel; climb up and down steps; climb over obstacles; play hid and seek; go in and out a doorway with a step up or down; exposed to an electric sliding door; umbrella; balloons; walk on a wobbly table (plank of wood with a small rock underneath); jump over a broom; climb over a log; bathtub (and bath); etc.
* Handled by owner (and family) 12 times a week: hold under arm (like a football), hold to chest, hold on floor near owner, hold in-between owner’s legs, hold head, look in ears and mouth, touch in0between toes, hold and take temperature (ask veterinarian), hold like a baby, trim toe nails, hold in lap, etc.
* Eaten from 12 different shaped containers: wobbly bowl, metal, cardboard box, paper, coffee cup, china, pie plate, plastic, frying pan, Kong, treat ball, spoon fed, paper bag, etc.
* Eaten in 12 different locations: back yard, front yard, crate, kitchen, basement, laundry room, bathroom, friend’s house, car, school yard, bathtub, up high (on work bench), under umbrella, etc.
* Played with 12 different puppies (or safe adult dogs) as much as possible.
* Been left alone safely, away from family and other animals (5-45 minutes) 12 times a week.
* Experienced a leash and collar 12 different times in 12 different locations.

*Even if your puppy is over 12 weeks old he/she will benefit from these tips. Start socialization right away!

The Dreaded Puppy Mill

For anyone not aware of what a puppy mill is, it is a place where the dogs living there are required to literally do nothing but breed.

They are forced to live in cages for most of their lives, often wire mesh ones only. Why wire mesh? So that their bodily waste will just drop down onto a pan that can be slid out and cleaned. Their cages are rarely tended to, they have no comfort or bedding, they are given enough food too keep them healthy, but no more.

Worst of all, they are denied the human companionship that helps them thrive. They are also not allowed to associate with one another, and their puppies are taken away as soon as they are ready to be sold.

They are not exercised, and seldom see the light of day. They are not petted, hugged, given a toy to play with. They are serving alife sentence without parole or even an hour in the prison yard.

How is this possible? you might ask. Beccause the fashion for ‘designer dogs’ pedigrees of certain breeds, that become ‘popular’, leads to people wanting to make money, and not only breeding, but overbreeding.

Due to the recent downturn in the ecomony, however, many of the shelters are starting to fill with young adolescent pedigree dogs who have not been sold. They are an expense the puppy mills, or the pet stores that buy them in the hopes of selling that cute little doggie in the window, can’t afford on an ongoing basis.

And what happens to the adult dogs which are not longer desirable breeders, you might ask?
They lucky ones might end up in a shelter, but have all sorts of emotional issues. Many groups are trying to actively rescue them from this cruel and inhumane treatment.

The irony is, that being a pedigree puppy that was paid for does not always ensure that the dog is valued and treasured. Puppies grow up. Pedigrees who might have been purchased for the show ring and not turned out as well as expected will also often be dumped. Doing a survey of our neighbors with pedigree dogs, every single one of them did NOT have the dog as a puppy. That equates with two dozen pedigree puppies cast off.

Breed rescue groups now abound. Why? Because people are basing their decision on what kind of puppy they want by looks or an idea of what the puppy is going to be like. When the puppy fails to meet their expectations in some way, it is abandoned.

Do we do this with our children? Sometimes, but mostly, no. Why should the commitment of raising a confident, happy, cherished puppy be any different from raising the same kind of child?

Some will claim that the puppy was unmanageable. So are infants and toddlers if you don’t train them properly. It is all about TRAINING. It is all about time, attention, affection, and not treating the puppy like a designer accessory.

It is true that a puppy can be like a bottle of wine-you literally never know what it is going to be like until it has matured a bit. Which is all the more reason why we suggest that if you are not sure you can handle all the work involved in raising a puppy, you might consider adopting a young adult dog one to two years old from a shelter or breed rescue group. Most of the issues like chewing and peeing will already be sorted out, and you can focus on bonding with the dog and merging it into your family life.

So how can you know whether or not your puppy is a puppy mill puppy or not? Always make sure you meet its mother. Ideally,you would like to meet both parents, or at least have contact information for the sire of the pups. Never take a puppy less than eight weeks old. If you are given papers, check that they are legitmate by contacting the Kennel Club. With a pedigree puppy, the Kennel Club also often offers insurance for health issues, and even lost or stolen pups, so all the more reason to not deal with unscrupulous puppy mills.

One other essential reason is that certain dog breeds have certain tendencies toward particular health issues, anywhere from allergies to serious heart problems like Mitral Valve Disease In Cavalier King Charles Spaniels. By having the same dogs overbreeding and intermingling, it makes the likelihood of your puppy having health issues that much greater.

Make sure if you do decide to opt for a pedgigree puppy rather than a mixed breed, you research the breed thoroughly online, with kennel club groups for the breed, on forums, or with the vet you plan to take your puppy to for all of its shots. (Also see the artcile on puppy innoculations). Know BEFORE you buy.

And a good breeder will allow you to bring the puppy back after a certain amount of time if it really is not working out for either you or the pet. A good pet store should permit you to do the same. If it is not in the best interests of you or the puppy to persist in a difficult and stressful situation, better to admit it up front than let the situation go from bad to worse.

If people are more realistic about the responsbilities of pet and puppy ownership, the puppy mills will not be able to thrive. If people are educated and responsible, and aware of the need for appropirate dog training, you and your puppy should be able to look forward to many happy and healthy years together.

For more information on different dog breeds and their health tendencies, do your research and make sure you all discuss your wants and take your lifestyle into account before finally deciding on the breed.

Then consider going to a rescue group to find the dog of your choice. http://www.petfinder.org has thousands of puppies and young dogs available for adoption from local shelters.

Thinking Of Getting A New Puppy? Part 2

Thinking Of Getting A New Puppy?
Make Sure That You’re Prepared to Put in the Effort to Train and Socialize It

Part 2 of 2

Puppy ownership is incredibly rewarding, but not much different from having a baby–in fact, a four-legged infant with sharp teeth can be even more of a challenge!

No matter what skill you are trying to teach, rewarding you puppy with tons of praise and even some little treats, is the best way to teach them right from wrong.

Dogs are pack animals who look up to the ‘alpha’ or lead dog in the pack, in this case, you as the main owner. The submissive pack puppy learns its pecking order, and its value within the pack. You don’t want it to be too submissive or timid, but you also don’t want it to feel that you are not in charge. Then it will try to take over as the alpha, especially if the puppy is male, and might become aggressive. So rewards and praise, but also some tough love, will keep your puppy secure and happy in his pack.

Everyone wants to be the proud owner of a very well behaved puppy, but most people don’t understand or put in the consistent effort with training that is required. A bit every day, and in each situation in your daily routine, is far more effective than trying to do a few hours at the weekend. The puppy needs to get consistent messages throughout the day, and also needs to get consistent messages from everyone in the family as to what is good and what is naughty.

Some people try to have their puppies trained by a professional, but they need to also be trained themselves in that circumstance, again, because the messages the puppy receives have got to be consistent.

If you are going to try to train the puppy yourself, make sure you read as much as you can on the internet, and get a good dog training guide, preferably one with illustrations, such as Maran’s. Make sure all the adults in the family read it, and if you have children, make sure that you go over the pictures with them and explain what their own behavior should be with the puppy.

They should never be left alone with the puppy, and should not be allowed to go in or around the puppy’s crate. It is okay to have them help with chores like feeding and giving the dog water, but again, they should be supervised. some dogs can have issues related to food and water or bones and treats, and get a bit snappy. They can also just want to chew or bite anything in sight, or that moves. They don’t mean any serious harm, but they should not be permitted to nip or chew on any human body parts.

These are just a few of the things that everyone who owns a puppy should remember. Most of these are commonsense, but it is surprising how few people are willing to discipline their puppy. It is not cruel or unnatural, it if for everyone’s safety. Learning just a few basics on dog training will really help to prevent any bad behavior.

A little bit o time and a great deal of consistency will go a long way toward getting the kind of puppy, and eventually adult dog, that will be trustworthy, loyal, and a pleasure to be around.

You will have the opportunity to show off your dog training skills to all of your friends and family, who will all be very impressed by your puppy’s good manners. You will be able to walk down the street easily without any barking, toughing, or face offs with other dogs, and will also be able to travel with your dog companionably.

There are many different books and other resources available that can teach you even more about dog training and all of the different dog training techniques. Start with the basics, and remember, they are just like an infant, with every day exposing them to new things they have never seen before, new learning experiences, new people. The simple things you teach are the foundations for your new little friend getting the best dog behavior training possible, so if you study well, and teach well, your puppy will be the most happy and eager to please student and friend you could hope for.

Thinking Of Getting A New Puppy?

Make Sure That You’re Prepared to Put in the Effort to Train and Socialize It

Part 1 of 2

Puppy ownership is incredibly rewarding, but not much different from having a baby–in fact, a four-legged infant with sharp teeth can be even more of a challenge!

If you have never owned a puppy before, this article should help to prepare you for the many things that you should know and expect from your puppy, and some of your responsibilities as the owner.

Your key responsibility as a puppy parent is to properly train and socialize the new addition to your family.

Dog training is very important for its overall well-being. The earlier you begin, the better off you’ll be. Even though puppies are small, they are an inquisitive bundle of of four-legged, non-stop energy, with teeth at one end and pee and poo at the other, and not a diaper in sight.

They are eager to please, though, and will surprisingly catch on to many things very quickly if you take the time to teach them, and try to stay patient if things don’t always go one hundred percent perfectly.

It is crucial for anyone considering getting themselves a new puppy to be prepared for the toilet training and basic social skills training that will enable their new puppy to mature into a clean, well-mannered, well-adjusted dog.

The longer you put it off, the more difficult they will be to train, the more likely they will become a nuisance to you and others, and possibly even a danger to themselves and anyone who comes into contact with them.

The basics include proper toileting, rather than soiling in the house. coming when called, sitting and staying, walking properly on a leash, and crossing a street safely. It also includes behaving well with humans, dogs, and other aninmals, both on the street and it its own home.

The Puppy Rule of 12 gives some helpful guidelines as to the many things you should try to expose your puppy to by the time it is 12 weeks of age, in order to socialize it properly, and enable it to feel secure in a variety of surroundings and circumstances. Once your puppy has had its preliminary shots and the vet says it is all right, they can begin exploring the big wide world outside your house.

But in the meantime, there is a lot you can do to help them inside, for example, by having various friends and family over to meet your puppy and help with its training.

(See also part 2 of this article)

Puppy Chewing

Chewing is an essential part of a puppy growing from puppyhood to adult doghood, but it can wreak havoc in many households, and can even be very dangerous, if not outright deadly for your pet

We try to baby-proof our homes when we are expecting a newborn, and by observing, and a process of trial and error, we can usually keep our baby safe.

This is not always the case with your puppy. All of them chew in order to teethe, obviously, but there are any other reasons why a puppy chews.

Puppies chew to play and relax, to explore their environment, to relieve hunger, to establish dominance, and to relieve boredom. They would have played with their litter mates, and play would have turned to establishing roles and a pecking order in the litter. They are soothed by the chewing, and process their wonderful new world, establishing likes and dislikes.

Remember that a dog’s sense of smell is about 100 times more powerful than ours, so he will often be reacting to scent stimuli. It smells good, so they want to eat it. Puppies are also frequently hungry, so they will chew as a response to this, and not only chew, but often swallow as well.

It is often the swallowing which causes the real danger. But before we get to that topic, let’s look at the destructive aspet of chewing. We are talking furniture like table legs, favorite slippers, jeans, towels, and of course, handbags and shoes. These are essential, and often high-ticket items, and it can be infuriating to discover one shoe out of every pair marred with teeth marks.

Talk about EXPENSIVE tastes. I once had an Irish terrier puppy who chomped her way through a wad of cash that was actually in a closed drop down desk! How she ever reached up far enough to open the flap was beyond me. Let alone how she reached up into the exact pigeon hole out of a dozen, and got hold of the envelope with my rent money! Luckily, all but one bill was intact, so I went to the bank any they replaced almost all the notes. Phew!

On a more serious note, puppy can try to chew through dangling electrical wires and give themselves a nasty shock, one which can result in death. They can also go for things like baited rodent or roach traps. Even if the poison inside the plastic casing is not enough to kill your puppy, ingesting the plastic might.

Certain house and garden plants are extremely poisonous to dogs, as are common foods we have in our house all the time. (see our lists of plants and foods which are toxic to dogs).

Children’s toys with small pieces, things they pick up on the street, chicken and other small bones, or bones that can easily splinter, can result in emergency surgery, or even death.

In terms of your own role in the household, you must be the alpha. Never let a dog chew on any body part. No or stop should be enough to discourage them. always give them their own toy to play with.

If there are children or other animals in the house, never permit them to be unsupervised and punish aggressive chewing with a trip to the puppy crate.

There are a number of safe toys you can choose for your puppy, ranging from balls to bones. (see our section on safe dog toys) Whatever you decide, always make sure you keep an eye on them and the toy and encourage them to always bring it back, and to give it to you. Don’t take part in a tug of war, but do open the dog’s mouth carefully to take the item with the command of ‘give.’

Don’t allow growling, barking, snarling or teeth-baring. that should also be punished with a time-out in the crate.

Your most important job as a responsible pet owner is to raise a well-socialized and well-adjusted puppy into mature and reliable adult dog. This is not easy, particularly depending on the breed, but they are what you make them, through proper training and discipline.

Chewing is a natural part of a puppy’s growth, but should never be permitted to become hazardous to pup, person, or valued property.

Guide to Buying a Pet Crate

A pet crate is not just for puppyhood, it should be for life.

Because dogs are den animals, a crate is a great home to a dog, a place where he can feel safe, keep his toys, and generally go when he needs a rest or time to himself. A dog should never ever be allowed to sleep in your bed.

Many people think of the outdoor dog house or run, but even if your dog is primarily indoors, a crate is very useful. It gives you more control over your new puppy’s access to the house (and things it can chew!) visitors, keeps them out of the kitchen at mealtimes, and more.

In addition, getting your dog into the habit of using a crate will help with boarding and kennel situations if your pet can’t travel with you.

If do you take your dog on the road, a crate is safer for travel, and can provide an area of comfort and easy clean up for a scared or anxious,or car sick dog.

We will be talking about crate training in another article. For now we want to focus on choosing the RIGHT crate before you get your puppy home.

First, estimate the dog’s size as a puppy, and as a full grown dog.
Your puppy should be able to stand, lie down, or sit in any position in the crate without restriction, and allow him room to grow. The crate should be large enough to accommodate a food bowl, and a water bowl, or a water bottle attachment.

Also, buying for the adult size of your dog (if he is a puppy) will allow you to use it for the rest of his life. Many crates now come with an adjustable inner wall so the size of the crate can adjust with him as he grows.

Next, decide on where you are going to put the crate-what part of your home are you going to reserve for your new pet. Measure the size, and then double the length, in order to make sure you can slide out the plastic tray at the bottom for easy cleaning.

The you should consider the style you want for the crate, durabillity, and multipurpose fucntionality. You have many choices available to you. There are wire frame crates, solid frame crates, and soft-sided crates, but the wire frame crates allow ventilation and easy cleaning. They usually have a plastic tray that slides in an out, which can be kept clean and fresh-smelling if you puppy has any accidents.
Just be careful not to slide it our when the pet is in there!

The wire framed ones are also great because can also be folded up flat and easily moved from one place to another if you are travelling with the dog. It can fit in the back of an SUV, or in the cargo hold of a plane.

For a small dog, you might decide on a soft-sided on for travelling in a car or plane. If the case can fit under the seat, most airlines will allow it to go inside the cabin. Otherwise, they would have to be checked through as baggage. Some airlines provide crates, others do nor, so having a wire frame crate for your dog can save a lot of time and money.

The wire frame type of crate is especially useful for house training and protecting young puppies or dogs that may become destructive when left alone in the house. It is great for keeping him away from constantly being pestered by well-meaning but persistent new owners, especially children.

When selecting a wire crate, check for any sharp edges. Be careful with the front door to see if it is spring loaded. These doors are not recommended because they can snap shut on a paw or tail.

Some breeders and owners say a dog feels too exposed in a wire frame crate. You can always drape it with a sheet or towel. Generally speaking, they are clean, multipurpose, comfortable and good for travel.

Solid Frame Crates are constructed from plastic, fiberglass or Plexiglas and are most commonly used for your dog’s travel needs. They are sturdy and have solid bottoms. Usually only the sides of these crates are slotted for ventilation.

Most of these crates have separate tops and bottoms that are assembled and secured with nuts and screws. The top usually has a handle. The front of the kennel frame supports a wire door. They are easy to take apart for cleaning and storage. They are also commonly referred to as pet carriers.

This type of kennel is a good choice for transporting your pet to the veterinarian and is good for air travel, depending on the size of the plastic crate and the breed of dog. This type of crate also provides a greater degree of protection for your pet if something should fall on the kennel or if it bangs into anything. Since this kennel has fewer ventilation slats, the interior of the kennel is darker and may be a more desirable environment for quieting an anxious pet. We wil have other valuable hints and tips for traveling on a plane with your dog in a a later article.

Soft-sided Kennels are like gym bags. All the sides are made from breathable fabric and are ventilated with nylon mesh netting. These types of carriers are good for small dogs of about 10 pounds or less. They are comfortable, but give little protection against shocks. The dog is allowed to travel in the cabin if the carrier fits under the seat. They can get wet and then take a long time to dry. These carriers should be used for short local trips only.

Consider the size of your pet and plan ahead. Buy a crate that will accommodate your dog at an adult size. If you buy a kennel that the right size for your puppy, it may only be useful for 6 months. Look for a crate which has an adjustable panel so the crate can expand as the puppy grows.

Crate Training Your Puppy Hints and Tips

You’ve probably discovered by now that buying a crate for your new puppy is highly recommended. So you’re in the pet store, and there they are: row after row of crates, just big enough for a dog, made of plastic, wire, or stainless steel. To you, it just looks like a puppy prison.

But to your new puppy, it could be a great home. Crates are one way for a puppy to have a place of its own in its new household, to rest, nap, or just have its own space and alone time. Dogs are den animals, and feel most secure when surrounded in a contained space (which is why they can also become a bit too territorial at times).

Crates are also great tools for housetraining your new puppy. Dogs don’t tend to soil their immediate environment, so chances are they are going to associate out of the crate with out of the house to pee and poo in no time, especially if you lead them from crate to outside in the garden or front yard or out of the apartment quickly, rather than letting them dawdle or play.

In addition, when in a car, inside a crate is probably the safest place for a puppy to ride, for both puppy and your whole family. And if your puppy ever has to be boarded, pet sat for, or kenneled, they will be much better adjusted if they are accustomed to being crated. You can fold the crate and send it with them.

Finally, a crate is a must for any larger breed dog that has to fly cargo. Their own crate provides a touch of the familiar on the plane, and save you money renting one from the airline or having to buy one specially at the last minute and paying a small fortune.

Making Pups Comfortable With their Dog Crate
We have already covered how to choose the right puppy crate in a previous article.

So, once you have the dog crate, put it in an area just for the dog, with enough space to pull out the plastic tray for easy cleaning. It should not be in the way of anything in the house, but not isolated in a back room either.

Line the crate with its bed, a blanket, its food and water, and then show the puppy the doot and how to get in.

Establish a routine make sure you don’t isolate your pup when he’s in his crate., except at bedtime.

Once your puppy has figured out how to go in and out of his crate, and has satisfied his curiosity about it, and does not seem nervous, use a cue word – such as “crate,” or “bed” as he moves toward the crate. Give him a treat as soon as he goes in, and praise him.

Repeat this several times at random intervals until he goes in when he’s told to. At this point, you can shut the door for short periods, without making a big fuss about it. In fact, it’s best to ignore your pup while opening or shutting the door and ignore any whimpering when it is left inside. Try to keep yourself emotionally even and low key. You are establishing a routine which will hopefully not be a rollercoaster for the new puppy, so just stay calm even if he leaps and gets excited at being locked in, or being let out.

Once your puppy is willing to rest in the crate, start confining him for varying periods of time, and at different times of the day, while you’re at home. You can also try for longer periods of time, but remember, no young dog can possibly be expected to thrive if it is left alone for too many hours.

The more random and persistent you are in crating the dog while you go about the house on your daily chores, or head into the garden or go upstairs, the less the dog will worry when you do have to leave the house. With this kind of routine, your puppy will learn to rest while it is crated, and that’s exactly the way you want him to feel – at home, relaxed and comfortable in his own little doggie den. It is his space, his alone and down time, which all animals need to grow.

Establish a household routine so that you put him in the crate at night at a reasonable time, and get up early to let it out to do its business.

The Crate is Great!

Occasionally you may want your pup to be in his crate when he wants to be out. Don’t try to fool him, by calling him to you and then forcing him into the crate. Instead, use a command like: “Go to your bed,” and lure him in with a little food and a lot of praise.

Hand over the treat as soon as he settles down inside the crate, and praise him and keep feeding him while he’s inside. The minute he ventures out, tell him to go back to bed, and repeat the process.

Put a few pieces of kibble in the crate so the pup will develop the habit of going into the crate by himself, earning more praise and even more treats. Sooner or later, he’ll learn that he gets lots of attention, affection and goodies inside the crate – and very little in the way of treats outside the crate.

Some people say to never put your pup in his crate for misbehavior because they might become upset and start to dislike the crate, but sometimes its best to separate them from your children, another pet, or people in your house they might not be welcoming towards. Try to correct bad behavior at the time, though, not hours later. So if you find pee in the hall, don’t lock them up for that.

The Crate and House-training
The puppy will rarely soil its crate, so you can also use the crate as a toilet training aid. As soon as you let it out, take it outside quickly, with the command of “pee pees,” so that it will associate being out of the crate, and out of its larger crate, with being allowed to going to the toilet. Rememer, they are very small, with small bladders.

To confine an untrained dog for a long time is to invite trouble. If the pup is forced to soil in his crate because you have left it too long, the crate will no longer inhibit his elimination there. and will be of no help when you wish to use the crate as part of your house training regimen.

You want to teach the dog to eliminate only in one place – outdoors. During the training period, it’s up to you to be clear about what you want and don’t want. You need to set the boundaries from the start. If you don’t want it to pee all over the house, don’t allow it to wander all over the house. If you don’t want it to pee on your bed, don’t let it on your bed. Simple, right?

If you do take the dog into other rooms of your house, always let it outside first, and never leave it alone. Ig you don’t allow your pup free and unsupervised access to the living room and bedrooms, he can’t make a mess on the carpets there.

Because most puppies can’t control their urine and feces for extended periods, the most important part of any house-training program is setting up and sticking with a schedule that your puppy can maintain. How often to you go the the toilet every day? When? Think about that and adjust accordingly.

Feed him at consistent times of the day, as indicated on his puppy food instructions, and watch his natural schedule: Puppies usually need to eliminate shortly after waking up, after eating, and after playing. Young puppies may need to urinate every four hours. Puppies will often do their business with appropriate encouragement, such as walking. Once they have had all their shots, they will be allowed to go for full walks. Until then, make sure you don’t dawdle, but bring them straight from the crate to the outside, then back in for time in the house.

When your pup eliminates in a designated area, praise and reward him immediately. People usually reward their pup for urinating outside only after they have brought him back indoors. This is a mistake because it rewards the pup for coming inside, not for peeing outside. Instead, keep a few treats in a metal tin in your pocket, and hand them out on the spot.

If your pup repeatedly messes inside his crate, take him to your vet to rule out medical problems, such as intestinal parasites, worms, and urinary-tract diseases. Also check how much water and food he is eating, and what kind of food. Diarrhea can mean a food allergy, and left unchecked, can result in a malnourished and weak puppy.

If you need to be away from home for a few hours, hire a dog walker to take the puppy out, or enclose your pup in a large pen or in a room with the door/s blocked off by a gate to provide him with an opportunity to eliminate away from his resting spot. Leave newspaper or wee wee pads down in one area when you are gone – but pick them up as soon as you get home so he doesn’t come to think of the whole room as his territory.

Punishment after the fact will never work, and only confuse the puppy. You must be consistent. If an “accident” happens, clean it up with a good enzymatic cleaner and blame yourself: You’re the one who wasn’t supervising the pup at the time the “accident” occurred.

If you catch your dog in the act of peeing or pooing indoors, make a loud noise to distract him, and then take him outside right away.

Dogs may also do their bodily fucntion in the house is a sign of behaviorial issues. Pets with separation anxiety will often urinate, defecate, or bark for long periods of time when confined. In fact, some dogs become so anxious when confined that they destroy their crates and hurt themselves in the process.

These dogs may do better when confined in a larger area, but if the problem still persists, see your vet or check with a veterinary behaviorist.

Far from being a prison of punishment, your puppy’s crate can be haven of security and comfort for both you and him.

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